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perry View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 October 2015
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2023 at 21:02
I agree with all you say.
On my 301 I installed new isotherm fridge converting from cool box. And spent lots of effort adding more insulation. On my H315 [2007] the insulation is just about OK but adding extra insulation looks like a bigg problem. However when the original thermostat failed [typical aneroid capsule type found in domestic fridge] I was confornted with a crazy price from Isotherm to replace like with like. I have replaced similar capsule thermostats on domestic fridges, and aware the same product was available at much cheaper price on domestic market.
However with fridge controls it is essensial to allow sufficient time between cycles to allow that the compressor only starts on gas [hysterisis in the crude mechanical thermostats] .
The cheap electronic thermostat shown in my photo controling my fridge is programable and you set start delay and gap max and min temps [hyterisis].  Adding to this the circulation of air over the evaporator plate [common in good domestic fridges] really makes it work well. The thermostat sensor is clamped to the evaporator plate.
I use a cheap [Lidle] internal/external digital thermometer to monitor the load in fridge, and cabin temp near fridge.
During last summer cruise in the heat of west country summer we where able to forget completely about battery discharge, with and fridge staying at 2-5 deg C. something that the setup on the 301 never achieved with similar battery capacity. It is worth saying that this setup is equally capable of running at lower temperatures if I set at -5 degc, it quicly moves on down to that set point. But 2-5 C keeps our food fresh and is as good as home fridge.
Perry
East Cowes
Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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coriolis2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote coriolis2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2023 at 08:45
Hi Bob, will make some pictures.

Regards, Rob
"Coriolis" H350 #045 (ex Waarschip 570 #? 1987/1992, ex Waarschip 28LD #7 1994/2007)
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Ian Coverdale View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Coverdale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2023 at 02:53
Forgive me if I've posted this somewhere here before.

Started on same path others here including the electronic thermostat module similar to that used by Perry ... and then became SLIGHTLY obsessive.

We liveaboard, travel in less populated areas, anchor often and like to keep a months supply of food aboard. Our 445's three fridges (standard galley Isotherm, optional Waeco DC30 'drinks' fridge and Dometic CFX65W fridge/freezer) gobble a very high amount of energy. Together they average ~2.1A with Dometic in 3-5C fridge mode and ~3.7A DC with Dometic in -18C freezer mode ... consumption that is there 24/7.

To monitor performance, be alerted to problems and help manage power sources, I embedded a small micro-controller in each fridge which measures temperature, power consumption and controls the compressors (not yet the Dometic). This data is sent over WiFI to our Victron Cerbo which collates the data. Eventually I'd like all code to run on Cerbo but in order to develop this and ensure the Cerbo is not overwhelmed with additional tasks, the majority of code runs on a RPI visible via laptop, iPad or mobile phone. Any 'out of norm' temperatures or power reading are highlighted in yellow and announced by a very softly spoken English female voice.

Next phase is to turn fridges into an energy store. When batteries are 100% and wind/solar is still generating, the setpoints can be reduced by 2C to absorb otherwise wasted energy and when batteries are low, set points can be raised to reduce energy consumption. 

All a bit obsessive and nerdy ... but when your domestic frdige/freezer at home has economy features and be monitored over the internet then why not the fridgr/freezers on your boat?

Cheers.



Ian & Andrea
SV Gabrielle (H445)
Liveaboards - currently Gosport UK for winter 2023/24.
www.facebook.com/sailinggabrielle
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perry View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 October 2015
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote perry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2023 at 09:24
Hey Paul nicely done,  doesnt matter if some think nerdy.
Have you  added a fan to accelerate air over the fridge cooling plate?
 I dont have your data monitoring, but my consumption and pull down times improved a lot.
I used a standard small [about 2.5"] PC fan with dropper resistor to run at about 6 volts,it was a bit noisy at 12 V, and probably moved too much air.
I think it pulled <75 milliamps total.
Perry
Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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Ian Coverdale View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Coverdale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2023 at 10:46
Yes, the fridge volume is too large/obstructed to rely on natural convection. 

Used a 50 x 15mm blower type fan; ball bearings and brushless (£6). Experimented with location, initially close to cool plate, now mounted horizontal on the roof bit behind side door in back far left corner with short length of conduit to extend airflow into right-hand side of the fridge which creates more uniform flow/temperature. Drilled hole vertically to under the sink for wire. The whole lot is out-of-sight unless you kneel down to look for it. 

Running fan at 12V was noisy and unnecessary; now driven with WPM so speed ramps up/down to maintain 4C. Initially used STC-3008 dual electronic thermostat (£12) for compressor/fan which together transformed this fridge. Didn't stop cool-plate icing any less however!
Ian & Andrea
SV Gabrielle (H445)
Liveaboards - currently Gosport UK for winter 2023/24.
www.facebook.com/sailinggabrielle
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spam View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 February 2017
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2023 at 02:04
Nice work.  I have myself also become a bit obsessed with the power draw from my fridge.  What are you using to read the current?   I am using the Ruuvitag bluetooth wireless to read the temperature in the fridge.  That works really well.  Have been wondering about way to monitor the current for a while.  Curious how you went about it

Harold
S/V Ventus
H415/314
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 March 2023 at 16:55
As a baseline for a relatively unmodified system, my power audits show that the compressor runs for 3 minutes in every 20 in summer temps of 20-28C.  My (calibrated) Victron battery monitor shows it draws between 4.5 - 5.5A in those minutes when running.  Assuming an average then of 5A, running for 3.6 hours in a 24 hour period this gives a total draw of 18A/day.  Its actually less than that as I turn the fridge off at night when not on shore power (~12A).

Lacking both the skill and the bravery to hack at the cabinets, the only modifications are holes in the exterior door of the adjacent cabinet and in the board separating it from the compressor in the hope of increasing ventilation.  Other than that we keep the fridge filled, stack it with ice when able and try to use just the top opening.

All the modifications in the posts above deserve respect and I'm in awe of those who can make changes with such professional results.  However, 350A of solar, a Balmar alternator and decent regulator produce more than enough power for our needs so I haven't yet felt the need to risk my safety in attacking an area that my wife makes very clear is her personal domain.

I do like Ian's idea of a separate beer-fridge though....
H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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coriolis2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coriolis2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 April 2023 at 12:53
Hi Bob, as promissed but a little late the pictures:

I applied about 1.5m2 of rockwool trough the underside and the hole on the left side of the oven. Furthermore a can of PUR via holes as pictured below. It can keep up high ambient temps now without high Amps and without any condensation.

Overview:

Hole pattern on the cabin side:


Hole pattern on the inside (1/2):


Hole pattern on the inside (2/2):


Access left of oven with oscillating multi tool:


Best regards, Rob
"Coriolis" H350 #045 (ex Waarschip 570 #? 1987/1992, ex Waarschip 28LD #7 1994/2007)
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350Bob View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 August 2015
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 April 2023 at 17:17
Hi Rob,

That is really useful information, thanks very much for the detailed reply.

Best wishes

Bob
H350 #205
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