Welcome to myHanse.com the forum for Hanse Yachts owners throughout the world. | |
Webasto heater installation |
Post Reply |
Author | |
danferra
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 17 January 2021 Location: Ancona Status: Offline Points: 4 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 16 November 2022 at 08:05 |
Hi, I'm new to the forum, I would like to install a webasto system on my boat Hanse 341 - 3 cabin version. Can someone who has already done it or who has it on board show me the path of the ducts and the position of the air vents? If you have any diagrams or photos that would be great... Thanks and fair winds to all with a Hanse s/y!!!!!! Daniele - Ancona - Italy
|
|
Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1009 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Search->advanced search->any date->all forums->"webasto" ............................................... and you will find:
|
|
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
|
|
Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 833 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It is a pity I did not see your message last week, as I was up winterising my yacht and could have taken a number of relevant photos. As I live 400kms from Largs, I will not see the yacht until next March, so we will have to go with some diagrams and descriptions. I was not the original purchaser of the yacht, so I do not know whether the system was as fitted by Hanse or through the dealer. The actual heater (Webasto 3500 Airtop) is located at the
top of the front wall of starboard lazarette locket, mounted a long way
outboard, so you cannot actually see it when you open the hatch cover (green
block in the diagram). So, it is right
under the deck. This is not ideal, as
the heating duct has to do almost a 180o turn and this section of
the pipe actually failed a couple of years ago, but then again it was 15 years
old. The exhaust pipe goes out through
the transom and can be seen in the photo.
The surveyor said there should really be an air Inlet, but we work on
just propping up a hatch cover slightly when we run the heater and this is okay
as we have a cockpit tent, so there is no problem if it is raining. The heating duct (100mm? blue line) then follows the hull
down and turns right to go underneath the starboard cabin bed. Underneath this bed it then splits, probably
with 2 Y fittings. One smaller pipe (75mm
red lines) goes straight to the front wall of the bed base and there is a vent
there. Another smaller diameter pipe
crosses the yacht (behind the saildrive?), goes in front of the fuel tank to an
(90deg bend?) outlet in the front of the port cabin bed base. The main large pipe goes outboard of the battery box, runs
on top of the ledge of the inner moulding underneath the cooker and then drops
down to hull level underneath the starboard saloon seat. Having gone through the locker partition, it
splits into 2 smaller pipes. One outlet
into the saloon is through the seat base, just in front of the mast post and
the other goes into the front cabin. When I replaced the section of failed pipe, I took the
opportunity to insulate as many sections of the ducting as possible. I used sleeving from Eberspacher, some of
which are sleeves and other sections were wrap round sections with press
studs. So, I insulated the ducting in
the back locker, underneath the starboard bed and underneath the cooker and the
section near the fridge compressor. The system needs some of the vents to be permanently open. The only controllable vent is in the front cabin, but I would also control the one in the starboard cabin, as that naturally is the hottest outlet. The fuel goes from a valve on the tank, to a pump mounted on
the hull underneath the port aft cabin bed, out into the back locker and then
follows the hull round up to the heater.
As the pump makes a clicking sound, I would aim to mount it on foam to
act as sound insulation. The control switches are on the main distribution panel and
can be seen in the photo above the Raymarine plotter. The wiring runs through a void above the
cupboard underneath the deck to the back locker and then follows the hull round
to the heater. The positive bus (a bolt acting as the wiring connection) is in
the locker immediately behind the electrical panel. The negative bus is in the void just to the
rear of the electrical panels. (Only
Hanse would hide it up there) You can
access the void, by removing the inside top of the locker behind the electrical
panels. To help you to thread items
through this void, you can also see it by looking from underneath either side
of the cupboards in the toilet. The heater will not work if the voltage at the heater drops
below 10.5 volts and on start-up it draws a large current, so do not make the cross
section of the wiring too small. |
|
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Links : www.hanseyachts.co.uk www.hanseyachts.com www.fjordboats.co.uk www.dehler.co.uk www.varianta.co.uk |