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Webasto heater installation

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danferra View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 November 2022 at 08:05
Hi, I'm new to the forum, I would like to install a webasto system on my boat Hanse 341 - 3 cabin version. Can someone who has already done it or who has it on board show me the path of the ducts and the position of the air vents? If you have any diagrams or photos that would be great... Thanks and fair winds to all with a Hanse s/y!!!!!!
Daniele - Ancona - Italy
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2022 at 08:51
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 November 2022 at 10:47

 

It is a pity I did not see your message last week, as I was up winterising my yacht and could have taken a number of relevant photos.  As I live 400kms from Largs, I will not see the yacht until next March, so we will have to go with some diagrams and descriptions.  I was not the original purchaser of the yacht, so I do not know whether the system was as fitted by Hanse or through the dealer.


The actual heater (Webasto 3500 Airtop) is located at the top of the front wall of starboard lazarette locket, mounted a long way outboard, so you cannot actually see it when you open the hatch cover (green block in the diagram).  So, it is right under the deck.  This is not ideal, as the heating duct has to do almost a 180o turn and this section of the pipe actually failed a couple of years ago, but then again it was 15 years old.  The exhaust pipe goes out through the transom and can be seen in the photo.  The surveyor said there should really be an air Inlet, but we work on just propping up a hatch cover slightly when we run the heater and this is okay as we have a cockpit tent, so there is no problem if it is raining.



The heating duct (100mm? blue line) then follows the hull down and turns right to go underneath the starboard cabin bed.  Underneath this bed it then splits, probably with 2 Y fittings.  One smaller pipe (75mm red lines) goes straight to the front wall of the bed base and there is a vent there.  Another smaller diameter pipe crosses the yacht (behind the saildrive?), goes in front of the fuel tank to an (90deg bend?) outlet in the front of the port cabin bed base.

The main large pipe goes outboard of the battery box, runs on top of the ledge of the inner moulding underneath the cooker and then drops down to hull level underneath the starboard saloon seat.  Having gone through the locker partition, it splits into 2 smaller pipes.  One outlet into the saloon is through the seat base, just in front of the mast post and the other goes into the front cabin.

When I replaced the section of failed pipe, I took the opportunity to insulate as many sections of the ducting as possible.  I used sleeving from Eberspacher, some of which are sleeves and other sections were wrap round sections with press studs.  So, I insulated the ducting in the back locker, underneath the starboard bed and underneath the cooker and the section near the fridge compressor.

The system needs some of the vents to be permanently open.  The only controllable vent is in the front cabin, but I would also control the one in the starboard cabin, as that naturally is the hottest outlet.


The fuel goes from a valve on the tank, to a pump mounted on the hull underneath the port aft cabin bed, out into the back locker and then follows the hull round up to the heater.  As the pump makes a clicking sound, I would aim to mount it on foam to act as sound insulation.

The control switches are on the main distribution panel and can be seen in the photo above the Raymarine plotter.  The wiring runs through a void above the cupboard underneath the deck to the back locker and then follows the hull round to the heater. The positive bus (a bolt acting as the wiring connection) is in the locker immediately behind the electrical panel.  The negative bus is in the void just to the rear of the electrical panels.  (Only Hanse would hide it up there)  You can access the void, by removing the inside top of the locker behind the electrical panels.  To help you to thread items through this void, you can also see it by looking from underneath either side of the cupboards in the toilet.



The heater will not work if the voltage at the heater drops below 10.5 volts and on start-up it draws a large current, so do not make the cross section of the wiring too small.

Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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