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Navigation Light (green lantern) - cable route

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neo_neo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neo_neo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Navigation Light (green lantern) - cable route
    Posted: 30 May 2023 at 11:52
Our green lantern is corroded and the cable is also damaged. The cable enters the searchrail (pulpit) just above the deck. 

Does anyone know where is goes from there ?  
Is there a good location to pull a new cable from ? 

br
Nikolaj
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Mark_J1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2023 at 16:39
In a 2005 model year, the main route for cables is along the port side. Under and behind all cupboards/wardrobes. Then rises to the cabin top & port side at the crash bulkhead. There’s a small access path under the deck & above the crash bulkhead. That’s a likely spot to pull a new cable segment through. 

Mark
Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2023 at 17:40
You'll probably find that the cables on both sides are corroded for about a meter or so once they come through the stanchion.  I found it easier to cut access holes in the forecabin (later covering them with removable wooden blanks) and replaced the damaged wiring with tinned wire.  The holes also allowed for the backing plates on the stanchions to be strengthened.


H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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neo_neo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neo_neo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2023 at 11:45

We managed to find the navigation light cables. We used an inspection camera (the black cable on the first image). Following its direction up to the underside of the deck leads to the pulpit where the cable it routed trough. 

The plan now is to drill a larger hole (where the camera is) and pull a new cable from there.

The second image shows that a marine electrician has routed the windlass cables trough the crash bulkhead without prober sealing (pipe in the center of an inspection hatch). I hope it's above the waterline :-(




Edited by neo_neo - 03 June 2023 at 12:55
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Peter Russell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2023 at 19:08
On my 370 I went in from the anchor locker.  Access port cut on both sides and replaced the cables back around 1m+.  I could not get the cables routed back up the stainless steel work so used 2 quality waterproof deck fittings and ran them that was. 10 year later and all is still working fine.
Peter Russell

Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered"



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DJgun View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2024 at 01:55
Hi All,

I really like the solution of Ratbasher for accessing the space, but I didn't see it.

Recently my port and starboard bow lights stopped working, and when I checked there was only 5V present on the cables.  Investigation showed the untinned Hanse cable was badly corroded and needed to be replaced. Oxidation runs many metres back into all the cables.

Others have discovered before me that it is not a simple task to fit new cables because they are hidden hewing the cabin linings, and also clipped in various hidden places.

I knocked out the lining on the port side of the compartment forward of the bow (mater) cabin, and found there all the cable go up into the space between the anchor locker and the hull.  I will attach a picture showing the location. 

Using this access area I can actually replace the cables as needed, and will not replace the lining in this space.
DJ Sailor Ordinaire
HIN DE-HANJ0331J708
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2024 at 07:16
DJ - not sure why you couldn't see what I did, the access holes are almost the size of the wooden blanks in my picture.  However, based on your experience I must have been lucky; I found that it was easy to pull up almost 2m of cable from both sides and found that only about 75cm was corroded.  I replaced about a meter with tinned cable and then wound the rest up with a drip loop.  When I beefed up the stanchion bases through which the cables run I make very sure to make the area as watertight as possible.  Knocking large holes into that area also permits strengthening of the cleat bases and replacement of the wiring for the winch, both of which I've recently done on mine.

Of course, for anyone who discovers (and its only a matter of time before they do...) the same problem then perhaps an alternative might be to ignore the route through the headlining and go below the bunk instead.  On the refit last year I replaced as much untinned cr@p as possible with proper marine cable, including everything inside the mast.  

Iain
H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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DJgun View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DJgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2024 at 08:11
Hi Iain
I didn't  see because I didn't look properly in recent times. 

Having been away sailing (Swan 45) then Covid and other illness I was keen to work out exactly where the wires are locate and create a solution. It was interesting to find there are two seperate pink wires and blue wires like it shows on the electrical schema.. Obviously the previous owner had a problem because both lights were connected to just one pair of wires and the other pair was cut very short and left between the anchor locker and hull.

With my boat (2007 build) there was no way to pull cables through because of ties attached to the hull itself. That was what I tried first with no success.

Now I can fix the problems properly and also run power to the anchor locker for a wash pump to clean the chain and anchor. I will use a hose thrown into the ocean to feed the diaphragm pump with salt water, as fresh water is precious.


UPDATE 14 Mar 2024
After the above I found further that the cables from the switch panel XS7 connector to the bow had high resistance,. When tested open circuit the showed 12.8V, but as soon as a navigation light (LED) the voltage dropped to only 4.9 volts with only small current.  I cut the pink cables just 0.3m away from XS7 connector , and even there I found heavy corrosion in pink wires.

The solution now is to replace the wires from the panel all the way to the bow.  Rather than use the TE-connectivity connector separated the bow light wiring from XS7 and used more easily available spade connector fitting.



Edited by DJgun - 14 March 2024 at 12:08
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