Hanse 540 questions

E) On my 418 I used a snatch block on the end of the boom with a line coming back to the spinnaker sheet block and then on to the electric winch. Took me 2 mins to rig and I used it for lifting the liferaft off the ground and onto the deck when she was out the water. Piece of cake. For good measure I rigged a simple preventer on the boom. Once the liferaft was over the deck I eased the preventer to gently swing the boom (& liferaft) over the cockpit. For something more regular (eg your outboard) you could leave the block in place and run the line back to the gooseneck and down the coachroof as a permanent installation. Could also double up as a MOB lift

Congratulations on your new boat.

c) I am not sure what vintage your SIMRAD is but having always been a paper chart navigator I have been totally amazed by the opportunities that a good plotter bring.  I would not have been able to navigate through the Swedish archipelago with my inexperienced crew if I had had to rely on paper...
The key is to make sure that you have everything configured correctly (boat speed, depth offset)  so you have confidence in the readings.  You may need the manual to get the best out of the autopilot...

d)  The Jefa rudders seem robust and I don't see this as an inherent point of failure, although any spade rudder is vulnerable to damage from submerged objects.  At least you have the security of knowing that the boat can be steered using the autopilot if the cables break...

e) Take a look at Swing-Lift (swing-lift.com) for more ideas.  It appears that they are no longer selling this product but there are detailed drawings for you to work with if you can find a local fabricator.  I am toying with a Torqeedo or ePropulsion to avoid having a single large engine to lift but at present these are limited to the equivalent of 3hp which may not be sufficient.

g) After leaving the Baltic where I had the boat shrink-wrapped to the waterline each winter, I used a cockpit tonneau cover which used the track for the spray hood.  I removed the wheels so the cover was reasonably flat but the cockpit table provided a slope to ensure that most water ran off. This protected the cockpit teak.  A full cover is expensive and difficult to store (I am nomadic so all boat gear has to stay on the boat).

We have a 545/2010 and layout is quit similarity the to 540/2008

a)the 4 padeyes on the toe rail are original for the attachment of the lifelines. the orginal lifelines delivered with the boat are this size .Not a good solution they do not expand the whole lenght of the boat.

c)You can download manuals on : downloads.Simrad-yachting.com

d)normaly you will not loose the rudder ,it is floating. You can always take a spare with you but it is not the same size as the rudder of a dinghy  

e)we have made davits and lift first the outboard( 10 hp-45 kg) and store in de garage then lift the dinghy 3.2m Zodiac dub allu bottom (45kg)

f) the teak on this boats are  prefab pieces glued (vacum) on the deck and 7 or 8 mm thick when new after 12 years maybe 4-5 mm left. The planks are just simple retangular 38mm x 7-8 mm We have renew this year all the caulking( hell of a job) so I can speak from experience

g)our wintercover is made of STAMOID heavy cover( sergeFerrari.com) and still OK after 10 years

I try to sent pict 

 

Thanks for the information particularly the teak as I have one joint which is where the panels would meet where the caulking has worn through and teak is visible below however no other defective joints. This would tie up with the preformed panels where on the joint they would have a recessed piece of teak so that when laying they ensure a uniform width of joint. Will attach a photo when I work out how. Also the photo of the cover helps me understand how and where it should go 

Regards Jim

If your are talking about original Simrad electronics (at least CX plotters) than there is only one advise: dispose it in a safe and envorionmentally friendly way in a suitable bin. They are pre-modern era slow and awkward piece of electronics. Autopilots wind, speed and sensors are better and will serve the purpose, but forget any usefull integration with modern systems and in case of any malfunction, you will hardly get any spare parts. Replacement of all electronics is not a bad idea.