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Hanse 588 Haulout Advice |
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Zingara
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 19 May 2023 Location: Charleston, SC Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Thank so much for the great advice! Hauling out tomorrow, we just finished replacing the Lewmar steering gears and autopilot motor with Jefa parts. I feel like the other weak link of the boat is the thrusters. I'm going to spend as much time as I can going through them, and I really appreciate all of the help.
I'm pretty sure the thruster fuses are 40 and 41 on the main panel. Is it a good idea to remove these fuses when sailing offshore to prevent the thrusters from retracting? Also are there zinks on the stern platform, and is there anything i need to look for on the platform when its out of the water. I've also noticed the caulking falling around the chain plates, any tips on addressing this? Thanks, Zingara |
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Arcadia
Rear Admiral Joined: 27 November 2017 Location: Sag Harbor, USA Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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The caulking does fail, starting at the top where the cover meets the chain plate. What happens then is that salt water will get in but will not easily get out. Stagnant salt water will be oxygen deprived and will eat away at the stainless steel. I noticed very rusty water seeping out after the first year. When I had my hull painted, we scraped out the caulking completely leaving only the covers. Once the job was done, we left it as is and it’s been fine ever since.
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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY |
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Personally, I preferred to remove the covers on the chainplates. I also had heavy rust streaks. Now it's perfect...
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Hanse588#55
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Lyn
Commander Joined: 04 February 2022 Location: Hampton, VA Status: Offline Points: 103 |
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I also have the rust streaks and caulk that needs replacement ... along with a hull polish. I realize that these covers are mostly cosmetic -- did you decide to leave them off? Or just affix them with a small amount of sealant to attach them but allows them to drain?
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Jon
S/V Lyn 2017 Hanse 588 | Hull 19 | Deep draft | 150hp | 220v & 110v systems | Lithium House Bank |
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Black Diamond
Vice Admiral Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 923 |
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You've got a pretty good list. I haul every year, so its kind of automatic for me. Four things... 1. Check for abnormal activity on the zincs. Sometimes this can indicate a bonding system problem or leaking current in a nearby boat. 2. I would strongly recommend a line cutter on the prop, as there is no skeg or protection. I've hit two so far and had to dive on it. I'm well past the age where that's fun. 3. Consider strainers on the intakes for the AC and some other intakes. Whenever I sailed, the AC strainer got clogged with eel grass and other items, requiring me to clean it before turning the AC on. With a clamshell strainer, no problems. 4. Any of the plumbing that touches sea water should be checked, particularly if its "marine brass" (a ridiculous term) from the factory. Replace with TruDesign, Bronze or quality fittings (Perko, Groco, etc.).
Edited by Black Diamond - 27 February 2024 at 00:28 |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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there are definitely two zinc anodes at the stern, and i think they are connected to the platform actuators (on the 588). There are anodes on the williams dinghy if you have one, and the thrusters have 4 anodes each: two bars and two on the propeller axis. thise on the axis are annoying: they are machined and not standard. Quick asks for an outrageous price for the machined ones, so better find somebody that can modify a standard anode (or do it by yourself if you can). I do believe it's a good idea to remove F40/F41 with waves. In the atlantic going back to europe, the door kept slamming and making noise on the waves. I don't think that removing the power to the motor will prevent the door from opening, but it will surely help in avoiding additional mechanical stress to the actuator. I would also suggest to switch off the stern door - we had some water entering into the rear stern switch and it opened in the middle of the ocean without the possibility of overriding it...i had to open the control box where the oil pump is, and disconnect the switch that was overriding any closing attempt. As usual, these things happen in the worst moments (waves slamming and high winds, another boat requiring assistance with broken windows, kitchen that detached from the floor fixation...all in the same day!!!!). My mistake, better to discover the problem when you have to take the dinghy out that overnight while crossing!
Edited by Pzucchel - 27 February 2024 at 10:07 |
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Hanse588#55
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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I left them off. Better to see what happens there, and the aesthetics after more than a year is better and with clean plates. I prefer visible plates than a cover with rust falling down...
Edited by Pzucchel - 27 February 2024 at 10:10 |
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Hanse588#55
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Matt1
Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Nobody has yet mentioned dropping the rudder and running a new bead of Sikaflex around the join with the stock. This is something jefa recommend doing (every 5 years I think) and something my dealer said was “well worth doing” when I said I would be doing it to my 418 now she is 5 yrs old. Interestingly the dealer wasn’t so concerned about replacing the seacocks, although I will do that at the same time
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Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Hi, i can't visualize the join you're referring to. Is it around the white plastic cover that protects the Polymeric cylinders on which the rudder turns?
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Hanse588#55
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Matt1
Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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https://www.jefa.com/ftp/rudder/maintenance/Rudder_blade_anti_fouling_instructions.pdf
My mistake, they recommend every three years (!) Hopefully above illustrates where the sealant needs to be
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