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Hard to unfurl Jib

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janhal View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 June 2019 at 17:20
I have just bought a nice Hanse 400e from 2007. The boat has been barely used the last years. Last time I sailed it was very difficult to unfurl the jib. I could not do it from the cockpit. It was much better to furl it! It is not the halyard that rotates around the  forstay that is the problem. Its a halyard leader on the mast. The furl is from Facnor. I will check if there is to much rope on the drum. I also read that I could try to lubricate the swivel with Mclube One Drop. Is there anybody out there who have solved the same problem? Thanx for answerSmile
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 June 2019 at 18:35
Hei Janhal and welcome to the forum.

If you use the advanced search function and make sure you check the 'any date' box you'll find a lot of information. Here's a link to one particular thread:

https://www.myhanse.com/jib-furler-very-very-hard_topic9220_page1.html?KW=furl+jib

Facnor systems seem to have a fairly limited life and I know from my own boat there's little point in pouring in anything other than fresh water to lubricate the bearings on both top and bottom swivels. Interesting that your problem is unfurling rather than furling, however. If you're talking about the self-tacker then there's a great deal of friction to overcome in the system and I'd check that your jib sheet and all turning blocks aren't stiff with rainwater damage having not being used for so long. Lowering friction on the furling line by reducing/removing bends as much as you can is also very important.

The first two turns are usually the hardest and you might it easier to physically turn the drum to start things off or pull the sail at the clew. Clearly not ideal by any measure but it might help if you get stuck.

I spoke to a highly-regarded Rigger about difficulties in furling my jib earlier this year. Very surprisingly, he said that you can start the furling off on a winch provided you use some sense and judgement in not overdoing it as the danger is that you might untwist the forestay wires. While he quite understood why some would not be happy doing this he considered that a small tug just to get the drum moving would not stress the wires. Up to us individually to make that judgement.

Replacement systems are expensive. I understand the best to be Selden but at UK prices this comes in at about £3500 including fitting. Pro-furl or Facnor will cost around £2200 with fitting but you could ask a Rigger if its worth just replacing the upper swivel first (£700).

I'm asking Father Christmas for the Selden gear. This the only way I'm going to get it as the wife still doesn't know that I bought a new mainsail...

MVH
H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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janhal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote janhal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 June 2019 at 08:38
Hei, thanx for your reply!

Before I ask father christmas for a new upper swivel I will try to fix the problem. The previous owner just sailed with a big genoa and never had a problem with unfurling. I just bought a code 1, and I will use the self tacking Jib. When unfurling the jib with the sheet, the angle of the sheet will possibly create more tension on the top swivel. I will test this with a rope from the jib back to cockpit when unfurling.

As a new hanseowner I really love this forum. It so much useful information!

Best regards Jan


Edited by janhal - 08 June 2019 at 09:39
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S&J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 June 2019 at 12:42
If the jib starts unfurling easily but the last few turns get stuck, this is likely to be caused by too much rope on the drum.  The self-tacker doe not need as much rope as a full genoa so better keep the excess in the cockpit (or shorten the rope if you know you won't be using a genoa) rather than try to squeeze it into a full drum.
I also found that reducing my jib sheet from 12mm braind-on-braid to 10mm dyneema made the sail much easier to handle generally.
H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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janhal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote janhal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 June 2019 at 23:46
I will try both; to reduce rope on the drum and change to 10 mm dyneema. Du you use 2:1 on the sheet or 1:1, there are different opinions about this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2019 at 19:56
I initially tried to solve the stiffness in furling by adding a 2:1 purchase, however this really didn't help matters much.  One season later, I upgraded to 10mm dyneema which has improved things significantly.  I still have the 2:1 and haven't tried removing it since getting the new sheet.
H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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lukemi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lukemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 June 2019 at 14:29
Just want to add that this is typical of the Facnor. I use the Starboard Electronic winch to unfurl the jib and the port manual winch to furl the jib. I have been doing this for 12 years on my 370e which I am relatively sure is the same as yours. Just wanted to add this comment to note that this is not a defect but rather a issue of design. It does work but money could make it better.

Mike
StellaMaris 370e#166
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Gaga View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gaga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 June 2019 at 22:48
before you go on with expensive solutions...:

Simply release your back stay and  reduce your halyard tension by 10 cm and release the sheet...
 First round bit tough but then it should work well...
Good luck




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Thompy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thompy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2021 at 08:47
My H400 (#805) has the Furlex TD200 furler mounted in the anchor locker. In my 10 years of ownership from new it has never worked well, despite trying all the usual tricks. Maintenance is nigh on impossible, and there are too many angles for the furling line to pass through. I am now at the point of replacing it with a Selden Furlex 204S unit mounted on deck, which will require some S/S fabrication to connect the stemhead chainplate to a new strong point on deck. Has anyone done this before? Based on the Hanse website it appears that all new yachts are now fitting with above deck furlers, further evidence that below deck furlers are not a good idea!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old Racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2021 at 12:13
I agree with Gaga any time I have had difficulty furling or unfurling it has been down to the jib halyard tension.

Releasing it and inch or two works wonders
Hanse 320 Olicana Inverkip Scotland
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