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Heel to port

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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2019 at 18:44
Thanks Jesper. That might also solve the issue of water backflowing out of the drain when the pump is turned off if the whole deck were to be raised slightly. As you say, it does looks very nice but I wonder if the price might be a bit steep?


H400 #311 'Wight Leopard', cruising UK & Ireland

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jeb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 April 2019 at 12:47
I found some more pictures and a English description here: http://wesailhanse.se/370_improvements_by_others.htm (scroll down). That homepage has a lot of really nice stuff for Hanse 370/400 owners. Regarding price for FlexiTeak 1 M2 is around 180$ in Sweden + Glue and the frame material (maybee 50 for frame material) if you cut it your self. If you order it pre-cutted it should not be more than +50%. So I guess cost will end up around 200-300.
Jesper
Hanse 400e
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Bergen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bergen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2019 at 13:36
Originally posted by Captain Cook Captain Cook wrote:

If you search the post " Shower not draining wery well", you will find the opinion, that the issue with the shower drain is an error in the fibreglass construction.
 
Regarding the heeling to port, I have three heavy 100A AGM batteries in front of the sink, so the boat is more or less in level. I also have the offset water tank.

Hi Captain Cook.

I am also looking for placing additional batteries on stb side to reduce the list, but I am struggling to find a way for the cablings from the old battery locker over to stb side. Can you describe your solution for this?    
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 November 2019 at 16:47
Ratbasher

It is very easy to install a non-return valve just after the shower pump and that stops the water from the anti-syphon loop flowing back into the shower tray.  Just add a 10cm length of hose between pump and the valve and use the original hose on the other end of the valve.  

Using a shower scraper to clear the water is easier than using a cloth.
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2019 at 01:32
There is no way but the hard way. I drilled twin holes through the fibreglass structure. As I recall, I used an 18mm drill. You will need to remove two plywood floor-boards, to gain access. I recommend to use WD40 around the stainless screws before un-screwing, and a bit of vaseline in the holes, before mounting the screws again. The stainless screws are of a poor quality, if they do not crack, they are likely to be deformed, so the screwdriver will not be able to turn them.
In theory there should be a cable-duct from around the el-panel to under the sink, but if you find it, it is likely that the workers at the yard have tied it up with plastic-strips, thereby making it impossible for the cables to pass a 90 degrees bend. This item is mentioned in other threads. In this picture there seems to be a black cable-duct. Check under the sink before you drill holes.
I just used Sikaflex to fill the drilled holes around the cables, to secure that the cables do not move, and thereby be prone to damage by movement. A professional would use a rubber bushing.
I just borrowed a photo from another member, so you can see the strainers under the floor.
P.S. If you gave a few informations on your  profile, I would know if you lived near Biltema in Bergen, Norway, and thereby recommend the 50 mm2 cables they sell in 6 meters lenghts.



Edited by Captain Cook - 01 December 2019 at 02:01
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1, Icom M802, Simrad NX40
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Bergen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bergen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 December 2019 at 15:18
Thank you for your detailed reply and an informative picture (even if I was hoping for a quick fix).
I will search for the cable-duct before starting any drilling. 
In fact, I live only 400m from a Biltema store here in Bergen, and your tips regarding purchasing cables her is also appreciated.    
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Bergen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bergen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2019 at 19:32
Open up some of the floor- boards today, and can confirm that this is difficult without craking the screws.
However, regarding the holes for the cables. Did you drilled holes throug all 3 longship beams (as described in red), or is it possible to drill into the top of the transverse beam marked blue and have the cable inside this beam??   
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 December 2019 at 09:22
As I recall, I drilled through 2 longship beams, about between the red and blue lines on the photo.
Drilling in the transverse beam will give you the task of first putting a thin wire from hole to hole, and then using this wire to help the cable along. For this I recommend a hole of at least 30 mm.

In one of my other posts I have written about feeding the fridge with a 25 mm2 cable from my batteries in front of the sink. This due to a voltage drop in the thin cable mounted by Hanse.


Edited by Captain Cook - 04 December 2019 at 09:23
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1, Icom M802, Simrad NX40
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Fendant View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fendant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 15:48
My boat is listing 3-4 deg. to port:
a) Batteries              100 kg
b) 3 kw inverter          40 kg
c) Holding tank 80 ltr     90 kg
d) Grey water tank 120ltr 130 kg

e) Various Stuff in Locker 100 kg

This loads the port side with 460 kg - 150 ltr diesel= 310 KG = two well built crew members on port deck. You need to store 3oo kg of beer and wine on the starboard side to compensate



Edited by Fendant - Yesterday at 15:49
Frank
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