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Isotemp water heather without thermostate mixer

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Balticcruiser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Balticcruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 March 2010 at 12:49

The engine coolant flows not only through the engine, it also continues through the water boiler to heat up your tap water Wink. Excess heat from the engine is heating your boiler before its cooled by sea water.

This is the way you water boiler gets heated while running the engine. If you find leakage close to the water boiler you better check the connections.
 
/Balti
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Colin Fisher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Colin Fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 March 2010 at 12:56
Hi MarcoC.

The engine heating to the calorifier uses the same fresh water coolant system as all parts of the engine , thus the anti freeze mix will turn up beside the calorifier if there is a small leak.
Ideally Hanse should have provided a drain off point to the flow / return coolant circuit , as the only practical way to drain the system at present is to remove one of the hoses , and these are very stiff to remove. However I think this may be pretty much universal in the marine industry ... not much consideration to ease of maintenance!
Colin.
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MarcoC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarcoC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 March 2010 at 14:25

And people tell me that you cant learn anything from this forum Big%20smile

I thought that the heated seawater passed through the calorifier, not the cooling agent. But as I understnad now, the coolingagent gets hot, circulates through the calorifier and warms up the water.
 
If you look at this thread http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3710 can the reason of leakage be that I had the overpressure valve open on the calorifier?
 
I has never leaked before and suddenly it started to do so....
"Älva"

Hanse 370#671

Stockholm, Sweden

www.wesailhanse.se big wheel, deep draught iron keel, 3 cabins,Yanmar 3JH4E, Sparcraft rig.
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Colin Fisher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Colin Fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 March 2010 at 14:35
Marco ; The coolant circuit through the calorifier has no relief valve . It comprises simply of a coil of pipework within the tank.The most likely cause of a leak is that one of the two jubilee clips requires to be tightened as the blue hoses are made from a soft type of rubber and compress quite a lot.The screws have to be as tight as possible.
P.S.The relief valves are on the domestic hot water system.
I hope that this helps.
Colin.

Edited by Colin Fisher - 17 March 2010 at 14:37
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Hullabaloo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hullabaloo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2010 at 20:17
I had this problem.  After I tightened the clips on the blue hoses, as indicated in Colin's post, the problem was solved. I had to do the same in the engine bay. John Guy 
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Merinalle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Merinalle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2021 at 15:01

This is more than ten years old thread, but I think it is still valid. The reason why to install the mixer is explained clearly.

I have a plan to install the thermostat mixer this year, and have already purchased the parts. Our boiler is a stainless Isothemp.

Because I am not a plumber, I hope someone who has already made it could share experiences of installing the mixer.

320#166
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Alizee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alizee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2021 at 17:17
Can you take pictures of how you solved this would also like to do this or can you describe it? 
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Merinalle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Merinalle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2021 at 16:18

Alizee,

I have not started the job yet. I still hope that members who have already make this modification would share their experiences. Adding the mixer system seems to be quite simple. I am worried, though, how to make the joints so that it will not leak.

320#166
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Peter Russell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2021 at 09:40
I have the bits to do mine, brought last season, but UK lockdowns and other issues have prevented me doing it.  Hopefully we can get to the boat in a couple of weeks time.  If I manage to do the task I'll post the solution Smile
Peter Russell

Hanse 370 hull 499 "Outnumbered"



http://outnumbered.the-russells.net
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrocDundee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2021 at 21:21
Originally posted by MasterKeil MasterKeil wrote:

There should be a small thermostat directly attached to the boiler. There is also a screw to adjust the temperature. The problem is, that if you motor for a longer time, then an overpressure valve also directly attached to the boiler opens and releases water into the chamber where the boiler is located. Therefore you always should shut off the water pump and open a water tap when motoring. I will assemble a tube from the overpressure valve to a tube going overboard to avoid this.

I find this very interesting and will test to see if it explains the appearance of fresh water we sometimes get under the hot water cylinder. 

Even if the post is 10 years old, glad it came to my attention. 
Hanse 345 - Tenacious. Sailing on the Solent and now to the west coast of Scotland.
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