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leaking saltwater

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ras_mark View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 February 2021
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    Posted: 27 April 2021 at 12:04
Hi,
I recently bought a 375 with the explanation of a few liters of water should be removed over a full season from the "drain holes" port and starboard to where the drain pumps are placed.
acknowledge this as some water from the installations are around 10 years.. and the cockpit behind the steering is quite a bad design in general when it comes to drainability.

Now I had found that around 5 liters of water enters through 24hours. saltwater.

Off course I did follow all installations, rooms and valves but cannot find anywhere the water can come in or see any wet areas. So my next plan is to open the floor, which involves moving almost the half of the saloon/pantry.
1) anyone had a similar challenge?
2) anyone has a detailed drawing from the construction under the floor?
3) anyone knows if the 2 "drain holes" next to the drain pumps meets somewhere between the engine and to the drain pumps?

only the rudder seems to be not so easy to access
4) anyone know if the rudder is closed from the outside to the boat to where the enters in the cockpit?


All comments are much appreciated as I cannot emagine a bigger head egg than water inside my newly bought boat.

Thanks in advance

Rasmus Markvardsen, DK (0045 27695799)   
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2021 at 14:57
I would check galley sink hose. I had a y-joint below waterline. replaced the y-joint with trudesign.

Another issue could be exhaust hose if it has been rubbing against something, then water build up only when the engine is running.

Another issue could be backflow at the head shower drain.

The floor don't hide any secret installations in my boat.
There are stringers under the floorboards, so any water will flow freely between every compartment and through 30mm holes.

also check the grounding plate in the galley sink locker. Follow the green/yellow cable to  the 2 nuts/bolts.


Edited by H8jer - 27 April 2021 at 14:59
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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ras_mark View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ras_mark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2021 at 15:12
Thanks H8jer!

the galley sink hose y-joint/valve seems not to leak, only the water is trapped at that point- guess it must be the lowest part of the boat(it would makes sense as the drain pump are placed here..)?

The exhaust hose haven't been checked other that I can follow this to a certain point without detecting any wet surfaces.
- I will give it an ekstra shot as it might occur when sailing with engine running.

is the grounding plate exposed also exposed via a sealing to the outside? 
- should this be replaced due to maintenance?
- This I will investigate!

Thanks a lot!
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Arcadia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2021 at 21:27
I would also check the gator at the rudder tube. Itís not submerged but will let water in while sailing if it is compromised. Good luck...there are many places it could come. Process of elimination.  Check the anti-siphon loops. There are a few. If faulty they could bring seawater back into the boat when heeled.
Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Martin&Rene View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Martin&Rene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 April 2021 at 11:59
There is a drain from the anti-syphon valve in the engine seawater cooling system.  On our yacht it was supposed to drain into the sump under the engine, but it had become dislodged, so some water ran into the bilge.   Over a period of time, the valve can get a salt build up and drip slightly.  

The normal advice is to place tissues or talcum powder in various places so you can see in which direction the water is coming.  If there has been any salt water in the bilges in the past, it can make a freshwater leak taste salty, so look for freshwater leaks as well. eg the calorifier pressure relief valve. 

After a long discussion on the 341/342 forum, the advice was to move the Y joint in the sink drains above the waterline.  Not only did it eliminate a leakage point, it also improved the draining rate. 
Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout & shallow keel, normally based in Scotland
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 April 2021 at 12:07
Yes I also moved up the y-joint above the waterline.

The fresh waterpump should only run if someone is using water.

If the pump is running at odd times you got a fresh water leak. This is typical at the cockpit shower handle and also if you had removed waterhoses when doing winterization and the hoseclamps need tightening


Edited by H8jer - 28 April 2021 at 12:08
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Ratbasher View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 April 2021 at 16:58
Rasmus - as I've posted on another thread here I had some serious issues with badly seated hull valves after I launched the boat for the first time after purchase.  This was not identified on survey and like you, I was tearing my hair out wondering why the bilge under the sink (the lowest part) slowly kept filling with saltwater.  Although I'd (or so I thought) checked the valves for leaks immediately after launch, it was only later when a flashlight by chance illuminated a valve at an oblique angle that I could see water fanning out from the valve in a thin film hard against the hull; surprisingly good optical camouflage.

On lifting all the valves were found to be badly seated.  I should have checked these more thoroughly myself but instead relied on the Surveyor - lesson learned. Not saying this might be a common cause of leaks but it may be worth eliminating in your case.  The boat had been out of the water for about a year, the valves good quality marelon.  A trusted Shipwright reckoned that they were fitted with insufficient bedding compound.

You'll find that there are several drain holes through all the stringers which allows water to drain to the lowest point.  Its good practice to lift the boards on a new-to-you boat anyway; I found that the water had drained from the heads aft first, before trickling forward on the centreline and then heading off to the other side under the sink; really peculiar!
H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport, UK.



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Passatempo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Passatempo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 April 2021 at 20:39
During winter my oil tank has been leaking. The oil has been settling under the bilge: between the hull and the plastic inset of the boat. I guess you had the same problem with the water. My question: how do you remove the water/oil from there?
Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Passatempo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 April 2021 at 20:56
I have a similar problem. Oil from the tank has been leaking during winter. I removed the floor and the table. See picture. There are two sinks with holes at each side. Because of that the water/oil is draining through those holes and is setting between the hull and the plastic bottom. How to clean that?


Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 April 2021 at 22:16
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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