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Lewmar blocks

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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2017 at 20:14
Hi Andy,

The Lewmar HTX block has main plain bearing with ball bearing in the side of the sheaves for side loadings (e.g. self tacker block that gets high side loads). As a result the load ratings are higher than the Black magic blocks which are roller bearings.

For none racing and high static loads plain bearing blocks are better option.

I used the web version of the HTX block for my mast foot blocks, i will take some photos and post them for you. The HTX block is massive step up from Lewmar syncro or Selden blocks fitted standard and much cheaper than Harken Bloack magics if you are changing the whole boat over. 
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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AndyS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2017 at 21:43
I agree - bought one of the 72mmHTX blocks to look at and they seem on a par with the Harken ESP blocks, but are rated with a slightly higher load. One question: could you easily swap out the two blocks that are mounted to the padeye on the deck - seems like the Lewmar catalog says that the fitting that is connected to the padeye will accomodate the Synchro or the 72mm HTX - I really don't want to have to change out the padeye as I think that is asking for trouble. Also, the blocks that are on either side of the mastbase seem permanently attached to the pins, while the ones on the aft side (vang and mainsheet) have a clevis pin. It looks like a big Vise Grip could get the cheap block off the pin and then allow a clevis pin through the hole - is that what you did? Sorry for all the questions but I hate starting a job and then realizing I didn't order all the right bits and pieces. 
Andy
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2017 at 22:39
Not sure what fittings you have on your deck padeye but i think the 385 has Selden 4 screw padeye bases does it not? in which case the 10mm shackle of standard Lewmar HTX 72mm should fit through the selden padeye no problem?

If you have a padeye that then has fitting included (cup with hole) to receive the post on a block then its about measuring the diameter of the post on the new block to see if it will fit, of coarse you can just put hacksaw through this part of the padeye leaving base with its loop to receive standard shackle?

My mast base is Selden, a plate with series of holes so my mast base blocks were attached with shackles. You mention posts and clevis pins, does your mast base have pins sticking up rather than holes for shackles? i assume your mast is not Selden but Sparcraft or another brand? if that's the case and you have posted sticking up you will need the Lewmar HTX togglehead (halyard) block that comes with clevis pin attachment for this purpose, just check clevis pin diameter to fit your pin holes.

I will post soem photos in next few days of what i have done.
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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AndyS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2017 at 00:26
Yes, I must have the Sparcraft, as I have the pins sticking up. I did order an HTX with the togglehead and they seem like the right fit. I also have that cup with hole fitting, so if the HTX doesn't work I'll be sawing it off. Look forward to seeing your photos, and appreciate all the help!
Andy
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River Dunes, NC
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 April 2017 at 23:41
Finally got around to taking a few shots of the Lewmar HTX blocks i fitted to replace the factory Lewmar syncro ones.

Price relative performance i really rate these, plain primary bearing for high static loads and ball bearings in side of the sheaves for side loads, all aluminium construction to very strong, very high working loads.

Of note:
  1. mast base blocks now 72mm not 60mm (feel much safer when going up the rig)
  2. Converted mainsheet to German endless system using rear cockpit winches enabling me to control the main from the helm from either side/tack.
  3. Added an additional block and dyneema strop to make vang more powerful (non traveller systems need very good vang) made this endless so i can control the vang from either side of the cockpit (either tack)
  4. 72mm web blocks attach to mast base via Ronstan 6mm x 120mm dyneema loops



Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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AndyS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 April 2017 at 23:52
Thanks! That all looks great, and I agree the HTX blocks are very, very nice for the price. I am in the middle of replacing everything - these seem like the way to go. Smooth sailing!
Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 12:30
Just wanted to update everyone on what I ended up doing with respect to upgrading the blocks on my 385. For the mainsheet we used the Lewmar HTX blocks and those have been terrific. That was an easy change. 
As far as the mast base blocks, it was a little more complicated and I will share the part numbers. Our Selden mast base has small pins coming up through the base that are held in place with a nut that is slid under the base through a slot. It took me a while to realize that these could be replaced easily. There were seven blocks that were the cheap gray and white plastic ones on the sides, and three facing aft that handle the vang and main sheet. The seven blocks cannot be easily detached from the pins because they are permanently attached. I ended up unscrewing these and removing them completely. The pins can be replaced with the 10mm heavy duty block stud from Rig-Rite, part number Z-302SA. These are extremely substantial and have an 8mm hole, as opposed to the 6mm hole on the original block studs. I then used a 57mm Harken ESP mastcollar block (part 6050) which has an 8mm clevis pin and a high working load. The block stud fits perfectly into the gap of the Harken block.
Others may have used this arrangement, but there have been so many entries on this subject I wasn't sure. The ESP blocks from Harken are not shown in their 2018 catalog, as they are replacing them with their new Element line, but according to Harken they will still be making the ESP blocks for a while. 
Here are some pictures . . . 

Andy
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River Dunes, NC
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cafemino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cafemino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2019 at 15:50
Would anyone trust these mast blocks to climb the mast and not give way?
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2019 at 01:14
Harken ESP with 8mm pin, yes no problem.
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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