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Lewmar hatches

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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2020 at 22:49
Butyl Rubber sealant or caulk is an excellent exterior sealant. Good "wetting" properties, very high modulus of elasticity, and bonds well to fiberglass, steels, aluminium, neoprene, and most glazing materials. More difficult to apply than Butyl Tape, but better choice where inadequate pressures are available to bond tape materials. Called "bubble gum" for a reason. Smooth with a finger wet with saliva (trust me) Clean up with mineral spirits before it cures. After cure tough to remove at all. (includes fingers, but it will wear off in a few days) Usually available in Black White or Grey. Spend the extra on a "pro" brand like Tremco rather than the big box store brands.

Messy but very effective

Tremco Butyl | Sika Mastic SNB | Ace Butyl Rubber | White Lightning Butyl just to name a few.

Edited by StavrosNZ - 24 May 2020 at 23:03
Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2020 at 17:58
you could make them yourself. Search my site for lewmar. 
Uisge Beatha

Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002)
Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80

http://www.uisge-beatha.eu
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Sportswagoneer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sportswagoneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2020 at 18:05
A quick update:

Hanse Boatoon replies that the G2 is replaced with the G3 and offers that as their solution.
The Norwegian Lewmar importer asked for the “lens code” imprinted in the acrylic and then replied that they can sell the acrylic only - not the full hatch with a frame. I’ve made it clear that that’s not an option!

I’m guessing that Lewmar has now discontinued the manufacturing of the G2 frames altogether and only carries a small rest inventory.

Based on this I expect to be forced to get a G3 version. As long as they can supply the same color as the rest I think that’ll probably be OK.
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Matt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2020 at 18:53
Try Mauri Pro Sailing in Florida. They ship worldwide and on a full hatch assembly you may qualify for free shipping.

They have Lewmar G2 Flush batches listed on their site.


I am not affiliated with them but have used them regularly as a source of equipment and always found them very helpful.

Matt


Edited by Matt - 02 June 2020 at 18:57
HANSE 445 #231 "ALBION"
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Sportswagoneer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sportswagoneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2020 at 20:21
Thanks Matt!
I just about ordered from them - but decided to call first and check that they actually had it in stock. Which they didn’t. 
Ending up getting a new 2G from eBay instead. It’ll be a little darker - but arrive before the summer holidays. If we think it’s too dark we can always change back to the old acrylic.
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Sportswagoneer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sportswagoneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 June 2020 at 21:17
Hatch from eBay arrived today - so this weekend will be the time for the hatch project as the boat is on land after our service technician failed to properly remount the propeller and us loosing it at sea(!). (He’s getting us a new propeller on Monday - so next weekend we’ll be back in the water.)

Preparations based on good advice here has yielded me an epoxy repair kit and a Butyl caulk tube to go with the new hatch. Thank you all very much!

I’m expecting the old one will come out pretty easily but that there’ll be some moisture in the balsa core along the hatch. These are the questions I’m having now:
- As I drill out the old screw holes to 12mm and fill them with epoxy - I’ll regard those as properly waterproofed after 24 hrs. of curing. 
- What about the vertical rim of the old cut-out? Should I expect moisture there as well? Should I do anything about it?
- When applying the new Butyl sealant - I believe it should only go on top of the deck around the cut-out directly under the frame so that the screws will pass through the Bytul. Is this correct - or should I apply any butyl to the vertical edge of the old cut-out as well?
- I’ve got a fast curing epoxy that says “heavy loads after 24hrs. of curing”. It may be very tempting to drill them and screw in the new hatch around 20 hrs. after the epoxy repair. Any thoughts on cutting the curing time a few hours short?


Edited by Sportswagoneer - 12 June 2020 at 22:01
2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”
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StavrosNZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StavrosNZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2020 at 03:37
Depending on the humidity and temperature you will want at least 24 hours before drilling the epoxy. Drill the holes as large as you can without compromising the vertical sides of the hull cutout.

Vertical rim should be glass so no need to seal anything up.

Apply your caulking to the horizontal edges of the deck around the cut out and on the horizontal flange of the hatch, be sure hatch flange is clean of all old caulking and any contamination, clean with acetone.


Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand
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Sportswagoneer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sportswagoneer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2020 at 22:40
Thanks again for all your replies!

Having no experience with epoxy repairs I consulted my local West system store and ended up with a GFLEX 650 repair kit. This epoxy proved to be extraordinary elastic even after a week of curing. I screwed back into it after drilling and was able to use 5.5x25mm self tappers around the frame - but the epoxy remains so elastic that even after a week, I can still keep tightening them... I’m a bit sceptical about this!

For now I kept the original hinge screws since I couldn’t acquire the right dimension through bolts at the time of mounting. I now have those and can pretty easily upgrade - but if the other screws will remain too loose - I’ll just wait a bit and see if I need to change them all.

The Butyl Caulk (Terostat/Teroson 2759 from Henkel) proved very good to work with and easy to clean up, using a ball of product as “flypaper” along the edges. Also easy to lay down a nice thick “sausage” directly on the screw-holes and then just place the hatch directly on top without having to smooth it.

So essentially I’m now waiting for rain and heavy seas to see if the screws will come loose and leaking commence. If this happens my plan is as follows:

- Re-drill the epoxy holes and re-fill with a stronger (harder) epoxy - probably the self-mixing West system SIX-10. Expend a new tube of the butyl caulk (how important is it to remove all the old stuff? It’s sticky as hell.) and then screw the hatch down into the hard epoxy, drilling through for the hinges. 
The main barrier to keep me from just doing this is the need for some 48 hours of curing during which we shouldn’t sail and it shouldn’t rain. ...and the boat is rather open even if I put my tender on top of the hole...

Comments still appreciated!
2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”
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Simon Hilde View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Simon Hilde Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2020 at 21:58
Does anyone know where one can purchase mosquito netting screens for the Lewmar side windows?
Thanks
Simon 


Edited by Simon Hilde - 03 November 2020 at 21:59
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Jackdaw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jackdaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2020 at 00:37
Originally posted by Simon Hilde Simon Hilde wrote:

Does anyone know where one can purchase mosquito netting screens for the Lewmar side windows?
Thanks
Simon 

This universal one works okay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHYD7GF/
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