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Lewmar hatches |
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Gregor
Admiral Joined: 11 February 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1256 |
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thanks Heikki.
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Uisge Beatha
Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002) Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80 http://www.uisge-beatha.eu |
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Tobyalibex
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 04 December 2018 Location: Abu Dhabi Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Good Morning All and trust that everyone is safe and well.
I am looking to replace my hatches on my 400e and wondered if anyone had the actual sizes and specifications of them. Ideally I want to replace with the original Lewmar products but if they are no longer manufactured then will need the specification to get the closest I can. Any advice would be welcome. Many thanks and keep safe to all, Toby |
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1009 |
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The "Advanced search" (which you can find at the top right of this page, by left-clicking the "Search"), gives you more than 100 hits on "Lewmar hatch" (All Forums/Any Date). In one post you will find this link, and in another you will be informed, that the hatch is the low profile model. Yet another tells you, theat the size is 60. Now I have done the search for you, so all that remains to be done, is compare the measures of your hatch to the measures in the link above. BR Kjeld P.S. Try also https://hanse.boatoon.com/de/shop/category/4/Ersatzteile/30/Luken%20&%20Fenster?page=0 Edited by Captain Cook - 29 March 2020 at 11:14 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Heikki
Commander Joined: 15 November 2014 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 82 |
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Hi Toby, When was your boat manufactured? The type of hatches changed from 2008. If your boat is earlier model, then you have low profile, size 60 hatches as Kjeld writes above. Normally there is no need to change the hatches totally, you can just replace the acrylics. They can be ordered directly from Lewmar as well as the new rubber sealing, which is usually also needed. I found a local guy, who made me the acrylics and ordered the sealing (Dichtungsgummi) from svb.de. Best regards, Heikki
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Melanie
Hanse 400e #121 |
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Tobyalibex
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 04 December 2018 Location: Abu Dhabi Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Many Thanks Captain - Very much appreciated
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Tobyalibex
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 04 December 2018 Location: Abu Dhabi Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Thanks Heikki - I am pre 2008 #075. Thanks for the advice and very much appreciated. I trust that you are well and keep safe. T
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Sportswagoneer
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 17 June 2018 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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I have a 2010 400 and my main front hatch is now flaking up in the powder coating and leaking. (The others seem fine - may have been replaced by previous owners.) After 10 years I don’t really expect a warranty replacement - so my questions are:
1) What to order? As I understand these are the Lewmar flush hatches - and I’m guessing they’re originally the “G2” version. There’s now a “G3” version. Are these interchangeable? Can I replace the G2 with a G3? Also: What color on the acrylic? The G3 exists in “Dark grey” and “smoke grey”. The G2 I can only find on the Lewmar website and only in “standard color”. The size for the front hatch of the H400 should be “size 60”? 2) How to replace it. I have some proper US Butyl tape and understand this is the sealing agent of choice. The actual procedure though is new to me. Any tips on a video or illustrated how-to for replacing the flush hatches? |
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StavrosNZ
Rear Admiral Joined: 24 October 2014 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 556 |
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G2 and G3 hatches share the same frame shape so either will fit, i would go G2 so you know all is the same.
As per my earlier post i ordered anodised frames from Lewmar when i replaced all my hatches, otherwise you will get white powercoat which is the only standard finish for lewmar flush hatches. Majority of Hanse, Dehler etc using these hatches have bubbles in the powercoat or worse. Anodising will not bubble and blow off and will last a very long time. Butyl tape only works where you have high clamp force e.g bolting the frame down, when i replaced my two saloon overhead hatches i drilled through and bolted them. If you plan to screw the frames down again the use Butyl corking not tape. Dont use Sika, 3M or other caulking as it will fail. I also recommend drilling all the screw holes out as large as you can (about 12mm) filling the holes with expoxy and redrilling when you refit the frames. This ensures your screws are in epoxy not the balsa core. When Hanse fits all deck and hull hardwear above the waterline they dont seal the core. Grey lenses are what you want not the dark smoke option.
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Stephen
2010 H400 #691, Auckland, New Zealand |
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Sportswagoneer
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 17 June 2018 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Thanks Stavros!
I believe you’re now the only person on the internet to have announced the correct color!
Were you able to conceal the bolt nuts beneath the trim cassette with shade/mosquito net when you bolted through? Read your excellent post above and will acquire some epoxy! Bolting through sounds great but I’m worried about fitting the nuts under the trim... I expect getting a custom made single hatch with aluminum only is simply to much of a fight (or too expensive) after 10 years... Agree fully with you that it would be preferable. The rest of my hatches show no signs of breaking up the powder coat yet - so I’m crossing my fingers... |
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Sportswagoneer
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 17 June 2018 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Had to Google «butyl cork» but no luck - it just showed different tapes. This is the one I picked up in the US over Christmas: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07663NFZZ/
(European ones seem to be made for other purposes than bedding hardware...) Edit: Should be “caulk” off course. (Not a word I’m familiar with. I can probably find this in Norway.)
Edited by Sportswagoneer - 24 May 2020 at 22:33 |
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