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Mooring chafe on bow |
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quiksail
Lieutenant Joined: 19 October 2021 Location: RI usa Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Thanks to all for this post as I am not happy with my boats swinging and chafe on the mooring.
I have noticeable gelcoat on the mooring lines and a groove being slowly worn in the bow about 2 feet down. I tried the fender technique for now and will fabricate a bow guard in the off season. I wonder why Hanse didn't design fairleads into the bow? or better consider the boats mooring behavior as My boat is a real "swimmer."
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Doug
S/V Comet 2019 Hanse 458 #039 Bristol RI USA |
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Black Diamond
Vice Admiral Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 923 |
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Its proven pretty simple to fix, although I agree that Hanse should have done this from the factory. 1. Put line chafe guards in place - these are very cheap and easy to install. This deals with both the mooring lines as well as normal dock line chafe. 2 Put a bow protector plate in place, this deals with the mooring lines or anchor lines. Mine is stainless and it needs to be at least 4MM thick otherwise it will dent and not stand up as well. 3. I found it unnecessary so far, but a riding sail would be my answer to the "swimming".. See picture. Edited by Black Diamond - 30 August 2022 at 02:37 |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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quiksail
Lieutenant Joined: 19 October 2021 Location: RI usa Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Hi Rick,
Thanks for the picture, your bow stainless looks great! I will work on these solutions this winter thanks |
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Doug
S/V Comet 2019 Hanse 458 #039 Bristol RI USA |
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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About point #2: Rick is right. I had put a plate in santa Lucía, following some gelcoat hits with the anchor, but unfortunately the dents of the anchor are visible on the steel again, it's too thin. I think it's 2 or 3 mm...
Edited by Pzucchel - 30 August 2022 at 13:48 |
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Hanse588#55
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Tranquillity
Captain Joined: 01 December 2018 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Hi, Not sure how well it works on the bigger Hanses but on our 418 this style of bow fender really helps protect the bow. Needs to be a broad fit for a Hanse bow.
We use it when on mooring bouys, raising the anchor and very useful on the very short French finger berths (currently in France!). Just have to take it off when sailing as twists and flaps around. |
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Matt1
Rear Admiral Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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+ 1 for Jon’s fender. I do the same. Always use it at anchor
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Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK
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quiksail
Lieutenant Joined: 19 October 2021 Location: RI usa Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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thanks for the tip on the bow fender. I have a 458 and that looks like a good item to add to the list.
thanks!
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Doug
S/V Comet 2019 Hanse 458 #039 Bristol RI USA |
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Lyn
Commander Joined: 04 February 2022 Location: Hampton, VA Status: Offline Points: 103 |
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Further on this ... I was looking at the rub strakes Rick installed to protect the gelcoat at my marina. I've got some flat samples (Taco brand from Defender) coming to evaluate length & width, but don't know if there are better ones that are contoured for the radiused/rounded corner edge. If anyone knows, please direct me.
Then, I started to wonder about where this topic started ... protecting the bow from bridle chafe at a mooring ball or at anchor. What about fairleads between the cleat and the bow pulpit stanchion to route the bridle? Maybe there is an aesthetic preference against. Maybe there is concern about creating something new for sheets to get caught in. Maybe there is a functional "it won't work" reason. Before I go drilling into my deck, I thought I would ask if anyone has done this and regretted it. Or if you have experience that suggests it is to be avoided. To confess poor seamanship ... yes, the anchor has a bucket of Chesapeake mud and the odd oyster on it. You should have seen it before. Surprised the windlass was able to lift a pile of mud that was the size of a donkey. And yet, this is after 15 minutes of dangling in the water under motor and 34nm of sailing at 9kts. I promise I cleaned it up after this picture. |
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Jon
S/V Lyn 2017 Hanse 588 | Hull 19 | Deep draft | 150hp | 220v & 110v systems | Lithium House Bank |
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Arcadia
Rear Admiral Joined: 27 November 2017 Location: Sag Harbor, USA Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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I believe that bow fairleads would put mooring lines at a place where chafe against the anchor would be a problem. You could remove the anchor but then they would be back on the gel coat except higher up. On my last boat I could lead both mooting lines off the second bow roller which put them out in front of all else.
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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY |
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S&J
Admiral Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: Perth WA / Med Status: Offline Points: 1180 |
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I think there are two different scenarios to address.
The first is chafe on the cap rails. When mooring stern to in the med we often use lazylines provided by the town quay / restaurant which are typically 30mm hard nylon, embedded with mussels and other stony bits. These quickly rub into the gel coat. Best solution for this are the rubbing strakes described by Rick. All the ones I have seen are curved with slightly pointed ends, so they fit over the radius of the rails. See https://www.plastimo.com/en/martyrs-inox-poli-9485.html The second is chafe on the bow from a mooring buoy or anchor bridle, and also possibly bow protection from the swinging anchor as it is retrieved.
The fender option may work if you are a weekend sailor, but if you are anchoring several times a day for a few months, it really becomes a faff. I used to use a closed cell mat specifically designed to protect the bow, but this season I haven't used this, admittedly at the expense of a couple of very minor gel scratches from the anchor. I'm hoping to get a 4mm plate installed for next season. I have the double roller option and I now take my anchor snubber over the second roller which allows the chain to hang vertically from this, free of the bow. My snubber was originally designed with two legs so it could be used as a bridle, but I now only attach one and the second is simply a backup in the case of the first one failing. |
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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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