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Heel to port

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 400
Forum Description: 400 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11308
Printed Date: 19 March 2024 at 11:18
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Heel to port
Posted By: toholthe
Subject: Heel to port
Date Posted: 11 April 2019 at 13:20
My Hanse 400 2007 heels slightly to port. I have an stern anchor, chain and winch mounted which does not help. Anyone else experienced this?



Replies:
Posted By: Old Racer
Date Posted: 11 April 2019 at 13:23
Our 320 heels to port slightly and from previous posts it is not uncommon.

It may be because we have the toilet and the locker both on the port side.

Does not seem to be an issue

John

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Hanse 320 Olicana Inverkip Scotland


Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 11 April 2019 at 13:53
I have a Hanse 400e from 2006 and have the same "issue". My version has the offseted bed in the forward cabin and the water tank is then offseted to port. I also have 4 batteries, 80l of black water, boiler, heater and aft windlass on port side. This is obviously not compensated by the 150l dieset tank on startboard. I'm trying to store heavy stuff on starboard side (as my gennacker, code 1 and all beer and whine bottles).
 
My biggest issue is not the boat leaning to starboard, its the fact that is a little bit to havy in the aft. This gives issues with the shower drain.


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Jesper
Hanse 400e


Posted By: toholthe
Date Posted: 11 April 2019 at 17:36
Same problem with shower, but not often we shower inside.


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 11 April 2019 at 17:47
If you search the post " Shower not draining wery well", you will find the opinion, that the issue with the shower drain is an error in the fibreglass construction.
Even with a full water tank, almost empty diesel tank, and the anchor locker filled with extra anchor, extra diesel and 80 meters of chain, the water still has to be manually scraped to the drain hole in my boat.
One member has even moulded a new shower floor, angling it in the correct direction, but most of us have got used to the annoying little thing.
A more annoying thing was the shower drain pump, with a filter (in a inaccesible place), which daily/weekly had to be rinsed from hair.
I lived with it for too many years, but then changed to a "Gulper" filterless pump.
Regarding the heeling to port, I have three heavy 100A AGM batteries in front of the sink, so the boat is more or less in level. I also have the offset water tank.




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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Carlosailfan
Date Posted: 12 April 2019 at 06:09
Let's say, 5 mm would have done miracles Tongue. Now we have to clean every time the H 385 and wipe the water away to the drain. Not that easy with the structured floor panel but i consider it as maintenance Smile.
Room for improvement.


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Best regards
/C


Posted By: Ratbasher
Date Posted: 12 April 2019 at 09:07
Yes, I think everyone notices it the first time they use the shower but it makes little real difference when cruising.

However, if you're ever concerned about leaks it means that the best place to look is under the port-side long board in the main cabin. It takes some time for water to negotiate the small channels cut into the stringers and its possible that it'll seep up over the board in the port aft cabin before it even reaches the bilge pump.

Like Jeb I've had even more 'fun' adjusting fore and aft trim if I think that the sea state might be an issue. Any boat is a compromise but I wonder sometimes if Hanse just wanted to keep us amused....

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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK


Posted By: Scotchmist
Date Posted: 12 April 2019 at 13:54
Try to check whether the keel is perfectly perpendicular. When out of the water measure with string or a flexible tape measure from the same place on each beam end to the bottom of the keel. You might find one measurement is longer than the other, it means the keel is offset and will induce a permanent heel. One effect of this is that the boat will sail closer on one tack, than the other or to put it another way, one tack will be faster than the other at the same wind angle.

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Andrew

Scotch Mischief Dehler 38 by Hanse


Posted By: mystudio
Date Posted: 12 April 2019 at 16:17
My 320 also healed to port. I modified the accubank from the port side to the starboard side and the problem was solved. Probably a full tank of gasoline would also have sold the problem, however, I don't like to have 140 liters of diesel in my tank because diesel spoils faster than I can use it. 

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#004|Jefa DD1|ACU200|EV1|P70|Raymarine E7|Axiom Pro9s|B&G displays|Emtrak transponder|Lewmar traveller|Dyneema|Flexofold|Carbon pole|ball bearing genoacars|Membrame sails|Spi and asym spi|N2K->Wifi


Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 23 April 2019 at 15:52
I have seen a pretty nice solution to the shower drain "problem" in Hanse 370/400. They simply faired the floor (maybee adding 10mm in the aft) and covered the fairing with custom made FlexiTeak. Looks really nice and FlexiTeak is also easier to dry. I had this upgrade on my to-do-list for this winter but my fridge project occupied all avalible hours. Pictures and description (in Swedish) on the Swedish Hanse Club on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1699672160051190&set=gm.803959409775517&type=3&eid=ARCsiOc2bKEkEKJCQiXkGO5ELRHwLvxqD-2O3TJx1SKV_R3-sgIx6cJmkpJhaIO6bcQhNOVlWGIWhrZf&ifg=1" rel="nofollow - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1699672160051190&set=gm.803959409775517&type=3&eid=ARCsiOc2bKEkEKJCQiXkGO5ELRHwLvxqD-2O3TJx1SKV_R3-sgIx6cJmkpJhaIO6bcQhNOVlWGIWhrZf&ifg=1

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Jesper
Hanse 400e


Posted By: Ratbasher
Date Posted: 24 April 2019 at 18:44
Thanks Jesper. That might also solve the issue of water backflowing out of the drain when the pump is turned off if the whole deck were to be raised slightly. As you say, it does looks very nice but I wonder if the price might be a bit steep?

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H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK


Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 26 April 2019 at 12:47
I found some more pictures and a English description here: http://wesailhanse.se/370_improvements_by_others.htm" rel="nofollow - http://wesailhanse.se/370_improvements_by_others.htm  (scroll down). That homepage has a lot of really nice stuff for Hanse 370/400 owners. Regarding price for FlexiTeak 1 M2 is around 180$ in Sweden + Glue and the frame material (maybee 50€ for frame material) if you cut it your self. If you order it pre-cutted it should not be more than +50%. So I guess cost will end up around 200-300€.

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Jesper
Hanse 400e


Posted By: Bergen
Date Posted: 30 November 2019 at 13:36
Originally posted by Captain Cook Captain Cook wrote:

If you search the post " Shower not draining wery well", you will find the opinion, that the issue with the shower drain is an error in the fibreglass construction.
 
Regarding the heeling to port, I have three heavy 100A AGM batteries in front of the sink, so the boat is more or less in level. I also have the offset water tank.

Hi Captain Cook.

I am also looking for placing additional batteries on stb side to reduce the list, but I am struggling to find a way for the cablings from the old battery locker over to stb side. Can you describe your solution for this?    


Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 30 November 2019 at 16:47
Ratbasher

It is very easy to install a non-return valve just after the shower pump and that stops the water from the anti-syphon loop flowing back into the shower tray.  Just add a 10cm length of hose between pump and the valve and use the original hose on the other end of the valve.  

Using a shower scraper to clear the water is easier than using a cloth.


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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 01 December 2019 at 01:32
There is no way but the hard way. I drilled twin holes through the fibreglass structure. As I recall, I used an 18mm drill. You will need to remove two plywood floor-boards, to gain access. I recommend to use WD40 around the stainless screws before un-screwing, and a bit of vaseline in the holes, before mounting the screws again. The stainless screws are of a poor quality, if they do not crack, they are likely to be deformed, so the screwdriver will not be able to turn them.
In theory there should be a cable-duct from around the el-panel to under the sink, but if you find it, it is likely that the workers at the yard have tied it up with plastic-strips, thereby making it impossible for the cables to pass a 90 degrees bend. This item is mentioned in other threads. In this picture there seems to be a black cable-duct. Check under the sink before you drill holes.
I just used Sikaflex to fill the drilled holes around the cables, to secure that the cables do not move, and thereby be prone to damage by movement. A professional would use a rubber bushing.
I just borrowed a photo from another member, so you can see the strainers under the floor.
P.S. If you gave a few informations on your  profile, I would know if you lived near Biltema in Bergen, Norway, and thereby recommend the 50 mm2 cables they sell in 6 meters lenghts.



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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Bergen
Date Posted: 01 December 2019 at 15:18
Thank you for your detailed reply and an informative picture (even if I was hoping for a quick fix).
I will search for the cable-duct before starting any drilling. 
In fact, I live only 400m from a Biltema store here in Bergen, and your tips regarding purchasing cables her is also appreciated.    


Posted By: Bergen
Date Posted: 03 December 2019 at 19:32
Open up some of the floor- boards today, and can confirm that this is difficult without craking the screws.
However, regarding the holes for the cables. Did you drilled holes throug all 3 longship beams (as described in red), or is it possible to drill into the top of the transverse beam marked blue and have the cable inside this beam??   


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 04 December 2019 at 09:22
As I recall, I drilled through 2 longship beams, about between the red and blue lines on the photo.
Drilling in the transverse beam will give you the task of first putting a thin wire from hole to hole, and then using this wire to help the cable along. For this I recommend a hole of at least 30 mm.

In one of my other posts I have written about feeding the fridge with a 25 mm2 cable from my batteries in front of the sink. This due to a voltage drop in the thin cable mounted by Hanse.


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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: Fendant
Date Posted: 05 December 2019 at 15:48
My boat is listing 3-4 deg. to port:
a) Batteries              100 kg
b) 3 kw inverter          40 kg
c) Holding tank 80 ltr     90 kg
d) Grey water tank 120ltr 130 kg

e) Various Stuff in Locker 100 kg

This loads the port side with 460 kg - 150 ltr diesel= 310 KG = two well built crew members on port deck. You need to store 3oo kg of beer and wine on the starboard side to compensate



-------------
Frank


Posted By: Nigel
Date Posted: 14 April 2020 at 04:47
Hello Captain Cook,
I'm in Western Australia and have a 400e built to survey - I bought it second hand.

The fridge ice box doesn't work ..I found a small hole in the iso plate. I've spoken to the refrigeration technician and he says it cant be welded/ soldered .
In short I have to replace the unit which means removing the sink/fridge cabinet . The shipwright has looked at it and says it's not too difficult just fiddly and time consuming.
Hanse don't think of maintinence when they build - it's IMPOSSIBLE to get to the compressor unit without removing the galley !How can you regas?

I saw in one of your posts you had photos of the boat during construction ... how can I get these photos?Where is the shower pump? My deck shower is a trickle and there's no kinks in the line

Thank you for any help 
Nigel from Satchmo


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 14 April 2020 at 11:49
Hi Nigel
When I use the search function, I see that I already answered most of your questions in february:
https://www.myhanse.com/fridge-compressor-problems_topic11611_post97389.html?KW=#97389" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/fridge-compressor-problems_topic11611_post97389.html?KW=#97389
I wrote:
"With regards to the old compressor, you can cut off the tubes inside the fridge, and seal the holes with a two-component putty, or leave enough tube protuding, so you can solder two small "hats" in the end. Then you could leave the old compressor in place, and forget about it.
Read the earlier posts here on myhanse about the subject.
I know that Angelina has mounted a new system, with the new compressor placed under the seats in front of the fridge. "
As I have said before, I do not recommend to dismantle the pantry if you want to use the materials again. As you can read in my earlier posts, I have made a hole for access to the compressor, so I have experience in trying to save the materials for reuse. I also rebuilt the bed in the master cabin, and also here the wood was glued together so dismantling was very time consuming, and only by luck I saved so much, that I could rebuild the bed with the old materials.
In the post above I recommend to remove the evaporator, and let the old compressor stay, and then install a new evaporator with a compressor under the seat in front of the pantry.
This is still my best advice. Use the search function for more posts about the fridge.
About regas, search "R134a" in the 400 forum. Advanced search of course.
The fresh water/shower pump is under the seat in the shower cabin. It has a screw-on filter that needs to be cleaned at intervals. Beside it is a drain pump to the shower with a filter too. If you  are tired of cleaning this filter, do like me, and buy a Gulper filterless pump.
Check your deck shower rubber hose beneath the deck, it may have a kink there.
The photos of the 370 in construction are still available at:
The BananAlbum
http://www.hleijnse.nl/ZEILEN/werfbezoek/index.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.hleijnse.nl/ZEILEN/werfbezoek/index.htm
I believe that Hans Leijnse has sold his Hanse, so the photos may be gone some day. If you want to be sure to dispone of them in the future, you can make screen-dumps.
:Kjeld

 



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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)



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