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Solar panels on hatch garage

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints and Tips
Forum Name: 415/418
Forum Description: 415/418 Hints, Tips and News
URL: http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11343
Printed Date: 08 December 2021 at 22:44
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Solar panels on hatch garage
Posted By: Matt1
Subject: Solar panels on hatch garage
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 10:17
Hi - Am going to install a 100w Sunpower solar panel on the hatch garage of my 418, which looks like it will fit nicely. Looks like the garage flexes a fair bit, hence the sunpower flex panel. Anyone care to comment on the cable route to the battery? Am assuming the cable would run fwds, under the deckhead towards the mast and then follow the route that any of the mast cabling takes back down to the port side electrics / battery area. Plenty of room by the batteries for the controller. I'm assuming that the headliner panels that are free of screw fixings are held in place with adhesive velcro pads or the like and simply pull off?



Replies:
Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 11:16
With a bit of work, I got a cable into the void under the sprayhood support and took this to the port side where I was able to access it by removing the companionway light.  From there to heads and battery was reasonably easy.
This was on a 385 but I imagine a 415 /418 is similar.


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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 12:25
ah. Marvellous - I had assumed there wouldn't be a route via the heads. Thanks - that will be this weekend's fun


Posted By: Mike2145
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 18:53
Originally posted by Matt1 Matt1 wrote:

ah. Marvellous - I had assumed there wouldn't be a route via the heads. Thanks - that will be this weekend's fun

Let us know how you get on.  I’ve got the same job in a few weeks. 


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Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.


Posted By: Petersson
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 20:10
S&j: i have a 385 and would lile to do something similar. 
What void are you talking about though? Any chance you have pictures on how and where you entered the hull?
Also which physical size were you able to fit?
Thanks//H


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 03 May 2019 at 20:19
Will do. 

Ideally I wanted the solar panel footprint to be contained within the shape / size of the hatch garage but in the end got the 110w panel from sunpower, which was the same physical size as the 100w panel, but turned out to be slightly longer than the hatch garage. (I had misread my measurements). It will just have to overlap the fwd join between the garage and the deck. I didn't start on it today as there was 15 knots blowing ....so I went for a little singlehanded circumnavigation of the Brambles instead ;-) 

I'll route the wiring tomorrow (hopefully) and then fit the panel Sunday. I'll take some pics and see if I can upload them here.

The Victron MPPT looks cool - it has Bluetooth so I can see what charge I'm getting from the panel. Was £20 more than the std one


Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 03:39
I also wanted my solar panel within the footprint of the hatch.  From memory I think that the 388 (and possibly 418) have a more flush design that would allow a panel to project forwards over a drainage channel.

In my 385 I have a Gioco 80W panel.  See  http://www.giocosolutions.net/" rel="nofollow - http://www.giocosolutions.net  but check the dimensions as it looks like they may have changed their product numbers.  The 80W was an almost perfect fit.

[Edit:  I needed to replace this panel and now have a 100W panel from  https://www.portablepowertech.com/product/100w-12v-semi-flexible-solar-panel" rel="nofollow - https://www.portablepowertech.com/product/100w-12v-semi-flexible-solar-panel  which I am very impressed with.  Very good build quality and working well.  Also a very good fit for the 385 hatch.]

The fixed cables from the panel emerge from the centre of the panel and I ras these into the raised ridge that the sprayhood channel fits onto.  To do this I needed to remove the sprayhoox and then the entire hatch cover which is just held in place by anout 12 large screws.

I needed to cut off the supplied plugs and used a cable connector secured with cable ties to stop it interfering with the sliding hatch.  

I then drilled a hole to pass the cable through in the port side wall of the hatch cover and carefully measured the location so I could drill a matching hole on the port side of the raised area for the sprayhood that is part of the deck.  I then had to replace the hatch cover and jiggle the cable through the two holes.  I also cut a ring of compressable foam then I ised a a seal.

Once this was done, the rest was easy as I was able to reach the cable from by removing the companionway light.

As you can tell, this was somewhat convoluted, but I felt that the effort involved gave me a much tidier solution with shorther cable runs than taking the cable forwards to the mast.  

I am not on the boat at the moment but will try to post pictures an a week or two.



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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 07:31
thanks Stuart - Great minds and all that! I had exactly the same plan wrt to the hatch garage and cable access via the raised sprayhood coaming. I thought it best to run the cables up from the battery first before fixing the panel but try as I might I can't find a route. I've dropped all the lights out, removed the odd storage recess in the heads etc. The issue appears to be where they have glued the deck liner to the deck with beads of glue that don't have any gaps to allow the cable to pass. I'm taking a USB endoscope to the boat today and more coat hangers!!

Presumably you had to cut the channel for the sprayhood bolt rope? Mine is a single continuous span across the whole deck



Posted By: Petersson
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 09:10
S&j: thanks. No pictures required for me anymore. 
@matt: i think he ran the cable underside hatch cover. Thus no needofcutting the spryhood bolt rope peofile to pass.


Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:19
My sprayhood was ordered from Inspiration Marine.  The main part of the fabric zips into a separate boltrope, so it is amazingly easy to get the sparyhood in position and just zip it in.
I do also have a tonneau cover which does not have the zip and I needed to cut a small access channel in the centre of the plastic retainer so I could feed it in from the centre in two halves as it won't strech around the entire curve in one go.

I have found a cheap (Ikea) retractable steel measuring tape useful for getting cables routed.  The advantage of this is that it is stiff so can be pushed through, but is also inclined to bend around curves (at least on one direction).

The challenge in getting cables from the main roof space is that you have a double curve from the roof to the side wall, and then from the side wall to the deck.  It took a while but I did manage to get this done.  I stronglt recommend getting all cables in place before comminting yourself to any particular installation.




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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: Petersson
Date Posted: 05 May 2019 at 13:57
I’ve pulled cables to fit tv antenna in mast. Brought the cable from the cable intake behind the liner to the light closest to the chart table. From there i used to steel springs that electricians use to pull cables throug cable ducts. Link of example below. I fitted the steel spring with magnets in the end, used one from the said light outtake an one from the charttable end. That was how i managed the double/triple curvarure. 

Also: when you have done something similar, dont forger the draw an axtra piece of string and leave be. Next time around, you just use that. 



Link:
  https://www.biltema.se/bygg/elinstallationer/elektrikerverktyg/dragfjader-stal-2000037629" rel="nofollow - https://www.biltema.se/bygg/elinstallationer/elektrikerverktyg/dragfjader-stal-2000037629


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 08 May 2019 at 17:25
Finally got the cable routed and the panel installed. Just need to tidy up some connections. Couldn't have routed the cable without the USB endiscope. I couldn't connect the Victron app to the Bluetooth MPPT as it required a password that they hadn't supplied me :( Will do so when next on the boat on Friday. It's a 110w panel so even in the UK I'm hoping it will be enough to keep the batteries charged on her river mooring.

Shame to panel extends beyond the hatch garage but could probably still remove the garage if rqd and frankly I cant think of a scenario in which I would need to anyway




Posted By: Nelson01
Date Posted: 12 May 2019 at 20:17
S&J

When possible,I would like to see some pic of your installation.We are planning on going that route but with 3 flex panels in front of spray hood.Just not sure how to route the wiring.

Marc

508#11 UNEVIE


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Marc

H508#11 UNEVIE


Posted By: Mr Bluesky
Date Posted: 13 May 2019 at 07:14
I have 2 Solara panels, an 80w is a perfect fit for coach roof garage and 40W sits just in front between saloon hatch.  Both running through VictronConnect MPPT, at weekend in bright sun without shadow together at best delivered 95w, and seemed to keep batteries topped up, with fridge, autohelm etc running, so really pleased. I have only just added the 40w, the 80w has been installed since new and was not quite enough. The VictronConnect Bluetooth is fab, code to link is 000000 (6 zeros). Cable routing through coach roof and down compression post to batteries.

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Mr Blue Sky - 385 #359 - Sail safe sail Hanse.


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 13 May 2019 at 07:47
Agree the MPPT with Bluetooth is great. For those that haven't seen one here is a typical read out
 
 


Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 19 May 2019 at 13:18
An update showing how I wired solar panel from the sprayhood ridge.  The cable was accessed from the companionway light fitting and then routed via the shower area to the battery.










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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: Sportswagoneer
Date Posted: 22 July 2020 at 16:07
For the 400 (facelift) I posted my hidden cable routing here:

https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8933&KW=&PID=99138&title=solar-panel-to-match-hatch-garage-size-on-400#99138" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8933&KW=&PID=99138&title=solar-panel-to-match-hatch-garage-size-on-400#99138


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2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”


Posted By: mattplowman
Date Posted: 27 October 2020 at 22:28
Good morning , I am looking at installing a solar panel on my 355 on the hatch garage. My initial idea was to run the wires up to the swan neck on deck and then follow the path of the mast wires to the port side switch panel. This to me would seem to be the simplest route but it seems most people run via the companionway hatch via the heads etc. Why have most people chosen that route as it would seem to me to be more complex and drilling at least one hole in the boat vs running via the swan neck on deck and not drilling any holes?

Thank you in advance

Matt
355 , #47


Posted By: Mr Bluesky
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 07:35
Matt,
It’s not a problem drilling to run cables, we have installed 3 panels on our 385, all with separate cable glands through the coachroof, and never suffered any water ingress.  An easy route is to drill next to the roof hatch and push the cable forward to the stainless compression post, then down that under saloon sole boards and into battery compartment.
Mr Blue Sky has 80w on hatch, 40w directly in front of that, then another 40w in front of mast, all three in a line.  We have them run in series to gain max amps, and don’t really suffer much with shading.  
We have a friend that has done similar but wired parallel and does not gain any more during the day.
Most important is a good MPPT controler, We have a VictronConnect which also has a Bluetooth link to smart phone to monitor performance, very addictive!


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Mr Blue Sky - 385 #359 - Sail safe sail Hanse.


Posted By: mattplowman
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 08:14
Thank you for your reply. Can you think of any reason why running cables forward to the swan neck and in that way would not be suitable? I am thinking will be a lot easier to run to battery compartment as will just follow mast wire route.

Thanks again
Matt 



Posted By: Mr Bluesky
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 08:28
Matt,  my main reason for not doing so would just be the length of exposed cable on the coachroof, but if you can come up with a solution for that then why not.  You would probably want to put a cable joint in Under the roof panel, just in case to want to unstep the mast.

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Mr Blue Sky - 385 #359 - Sail safe sail Hanse.


Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 08:35
I installed mine without having to drill any holes through the deck and without any exposed cables.  I would certainly not want cables running over the deck which, apart from being aesthetically awkward, could be a trip hazard or could become damaged.
With solar you will want to minimize cable length and given the battery position, it made sense to me to find a way of getting the cable between the deck and the liner via the companionway.
I removed the hatch cover and went in sideways in an area usually covered by the sprayhood.  The cables are totally invisible once the hatch cover is replaced.  There are pictures of my installation earlier in this thread. 


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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: Sportswagoneer
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 08:47
Hi Matt.

In my case it was simply a long stretch from the swan neck to the panel. Also I needed both a cable to the garage AND a cable to an Anderson contact for use with a mobile panel. I wanted to shelter this contact from the spray and thus placed it under the spray hood. 
The most difficult part of the cable routing in my 400 was getting the cables up into the ceiling from the battery compartment. The existing cable routing was very tight. Once in the ceiling, routing through the head and up inside the spray hood was easy. 


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2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”


Posted By: cgabay
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:33


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SY LUCIA
H418 #35


Posted By: cgabay
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:37
These are custom Solbians that we have. 342w in total. 114 in the middle and 114 each side. We always have some shadow at least over one of them. Still happy with the production.

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SY LUCIA
H418 #35


Posted By: mattplowman
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:39
Thank you for the responses , very helpful.


Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:48
I like the custom Solbian.  I am interested in how you go about ordering these and also how you have them wired to your controller(s).

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H458 #159 Primal heading to the sun


Posted By: cgabay
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:55
Turkish distributor created template on the boat carried the template to the Cad drawing and sent it To solbian engineers. I collected some pictures about shadows in different directions and at different hours. They simulated at their side and decided on placement of bypass diodes and cell groups. We have decided to go single panel in the middle with victron 75/10 and other panels in serial connected to a 100/20 victron mppt. 

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SY LUCIA
H418 #35


Posted By: cgabay
Date Posted: 28 October 2020 at 19:59
Turkish Solbian distributor is yes enerji.

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SY LUCIA
H418 #35


Posted By: Schnupfel
Date Posted: 07 November 2020 at 20:42
Hi,
Chris from the Sailing Aurora Channel did a video on this.
https://youtu.be/03rIVbd3WcY" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/03rIVbd3WcY
Good luck!


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H418 #121 KAPLA


Posted By: Iris
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 17:19
Hi I have a 2016 415 .I want to keep both my engine &service batteries topped up over 5+ months of winter.I have 2 demountable panels ,but am going to install a 50w on the garage hatch.I believe there’s a VSR in the system ,is this part of the battery combiner? I was thinking of connecting  this panel (via the charge controller) to the VSR/Battery combiner so that all batteries are taken care of . Has anyone done this or know any reason why I shouldn’t do it?



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