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Running rigging

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 300 / 301
Forum Description: 300 & 301 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13809
Printed Date: 19 March 2024 at 04:40
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Running rigging
Posted By: seanthijsse
Subject: Running rigging
Date Posted: 02 January 2023 at 18:49
Hi All, 

I’ve recently purchased a Hanse 301 (Seascape). She is due to come out of the water in a months time for a few weeks and want to do a bit of maintenance work on her. I am looking at replacing all the running rigging. Instead of removing all the running rigging and measuring the lengths and diameters of each rope, does anyone know if there is a “rigging guide” which has this all laid out or has anyone replaced their full running rigging recently that knows the measurements? I had a quick search through the forum and the 301 manual and I have not managed to find anything. 

Looking forward to some sailing this season in the Solent. 

Cheers, 

Sean



Replies:
Posted By: redlion
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 10:29
https://www.yachtdatabase.com/en/review.jsp?id=Hanse+301" rel="nofollow - Review of Hanse 301 - www.yachtdatabase.com  

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It,s not over till the fat lady drowns


Posted By: seanthijsse
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 10:43
Thank you! Very helpful. Do you happen to know the dimensions of the rest of the running rigging (halyards, outhaul, traveller lines, etc.)?




Posted By: redlion
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 10:52
Sorry no, but I would imagine if you know the mast hight then a rigging supplier like Jimmy Green will have a formula for the lengths you will need and will also be able to advise on the best rope to use. Good luck.

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It,s not over till the fat lady drowns


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 12:38
Personally I would check how your existing running rigging suits your needs. Sit & decide if you can improve layout etc ie bring the topping lift & vang back to the cockpit. Re route the barbour haulers. Renew the backstay adjuster to dynema with friction rings & omit the blocks & thick old lines, Same with the vang. Re arrange traveller control lines.Reef system  & if such improvements need any changes in lengths diameters, colours, types etc.
Then remove them & check against the major manufacturers charts such as Lyros & Marlow to see if anything can be updated. Make sure that you do not skimp on lengths.
Then go out & buy. Perhaps from your local chandler, or from one of the mainstream internet suppliers, with established names.
I would never go by anybody else's dimensions. Most sailors have their own ideas on what they think is right & 10:1 in some cases it will include a botch. You need to make your own decision on length etc.
By all means take hints & tips but do not take them as gospel


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: seanthijsse
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 15:42
Thanks Samuel. 


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 03 January 2023 at 18:45
I’d advise getting a rigger to take a look. Firstly, they will supply the lines you need at a price likely just as good as you’ll track down yourself. Secondly, they’ll be able to optimise line size, material and layout in a way you won’t be able to do yourself. For instance, I completely revamped my 301’s running rigging nearly 10 years ago (!) with the local rigger. We did some radical and nowadays very expensive stuff (changed out all four winches for Harken 35.2 for instance) but he also recommended downsizing lines to dyneema (for instance, we use 10mm dyneema for halyards and 6mm dyneema for reefs) and this has had a massive impact on sail handling. A professional eye will be worth the money.

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Hanse 301 'Karisma' | https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/


Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 05 January 2023 at 13:51
You can easily work out the length of the main halyard, by hoisting a length of rope up the mast, then making the necessary measurements on the deck.  On the basis that the major wear point is over the mast head pulley. then make the main halyard slightly over long so you can chop a section off at that wear point.  I reverse my halyards every 3-4 years to even out the wear.  Make the jib halyard the same length as the main halyard and then you can switch them over, again prolonging their life. 

When I purchased my yacht, I found that it was actually cheaper to purchase a full 100m drum of dyneema for the halyards, than to actually purchase specific lengths.  I still have a spare halyard in the loft, but you could just use the excess for other lines. The old halyards are now my spinnaker halyards.

Re, Samuel's suggestions, you can double stack deck organisers for extra lines and then you just need to check the position of the deck reinforcement if you want to add more clutches. Improving the back stay adjuster is really useful. 


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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 06 January 2023 at 13:43
If you are thinking of running some lines back to the cockpit but have limited clutches the enclosed pictures of my solutions may be of use. I have 2 clam cleats in which lines can be interchanged. So I can swop the cunningham, the MOB uphaul line, the 3rd reef line at will. The topping lift is permanently mounted on a plate in front of the winch. I copied the idea from the Figaro fleet. A dynema loop goes round the winch & inspite of what one might think it does not affect the operation of the winch & has not worn the dynema in 8 years of use. A thin dynema holds the front. There are 2 rubber buffers under the front to hold it up. I can use the winch to hoist the boom or pull it by hand as I wish. It saves additional deck holes & the complete arrangement is cheaper than 3 clutches






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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: seanthijsse
Date Posted: 12 January 2023 at 16:22
Thanks all. I have discussed with my local rigger and will be replacing a fair bit of the running rigging (halyards, topping lift, mainsheet, furling line, kicker and backstay). I am happy to share the specs of them all once replaced. I already have pretty much everything I need running to the cockpit (4 clutches on either side) but your set-up is very clever. 

Regards, 

Sean



Posted By: Stringers
Date Posted: 28 April 2023 at 22:39
Hi Sean, Did you add more clutches? Just had my mast stepped & there's very little there in the way of running rigging/quality - bit a lightweight dinghy setup. weird. As I want to race (eventually!) I'd like to start with a tunable quality rig. Can you share yours please? Any info on mainsheet blocks/ratios etc. would be really helpful, thanks


Posted By: seanthijsse
Date Posted: 08 May 2023 at 20:29
Apologies for the slow response. I have four clutches on either side which I find sufficient for my needs at present so I have not added any further clutches. On the port side I have the spinnaker halyard, pole uphaul (which I don't use), reef 2 and kicker. On the starboard side I have reef 1, topping lift, main halyard and genoa haylard. 

The blocks for the main and backstay are Rutgerson (which were on the boat when I bought it). I will eventually swap these blocks out and update the backstay system but for the moment these are sufficient for my needs. I have attached some photos of my set-up for ease of reference. 












Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 15 May 2023 at 17:27
Hi, on Hobo I have 5 clutches on each side: Port: Spin Halyard, Pole Up, Pole Down, Reef 1, Reef 2, Starboard: Main Halyard, Genoa Halyard, Kicker, Clew Outhaul, Topping lift.  Seems to work but I'd like a Cunningham too so perhaps I need 2x6.

A question for others about Spinnaker setup - Hobo has a couple of bonded in turning blocks for the Spin sheets at the back of the cockpit but tbh I never use these as I use blocks attached to the toerail about level with the winches that I set for convenience.  Should I be using the rear blocks?  I've done it this way for 10 years and it seems to work but maybe I've been doing it wrong? LOL

Also my elderly crew are struggling in strong winds when racing with the standard 4-to-1 Mainsheet (like the picture above), does anyone use something different?

Alan


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Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: Stringers
Date Posted: 17 May 2023 at 23:22
Hi Alan, I've just purchased & fitting this week an easy matic 2:6:1 2 speed main sheet system. I'll let you know if its any good.. 


Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 18 May 2023 at 17:13
Interesting, I was looking at that on Force4, though not sure if I needed an Easymatic 2 or Easymatic 1, but the 1 was out of stock anyway.  Definitely interested in how you find it.

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Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 18 May 2023 at 20:42
Hi Alan 'Hobo',
I use a home made fast slow main sheet system. Used it on race quater tonner, my H301 and now on my H315.I published photos on this forum on the 301, the 315 is much the same but no photos. Have a look at my forum photos, should be self expanatrey:-
https://www.myhanse.com/new_reply_form.asp?Quote=1&PID=85709&PN=1&TR=7" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/new_reply_form.asp?Quote=1&PID=85709&PN=1&TR=7
If your interested I'll photo my H315 version, the cost was of the rope and one of the blocks much cheaper than Easymatic' and it works well, trimming a big main upwind, provided you have decent traneler.
Perry
Bloto
East Cowes


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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 20 May 2023 at 17:45
Thanks Perry - I like anything that saves me money! Smile  I'll have a look at adding a fine tuning system based on your one to my current setup and price that up.

Another question while I think of it, the control panel for the engine is mounted on the port inside sidewall of the cockpit and is regularly kicked by the crew!  I am currently having to replace the ignition button as it got damaged.  Does anyone have any solutions to protecting the panel?  I was thinking metal bars over the panel, stopping feet but allowing finger access, but can't find out where to get them.

Alan


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Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 20 May 2023 at 18:17
I use the same fine tuning control as Perry. If i did not have a liferaft I would tale the fine tune part to the eye on the cockpit floor as it would not detract from the traveller much as I only use it up wind. It would avoid having so many blocks on the traveller car. It would also make the length of that set of tackle longer.

Regarding the engine controls. That is easy. I have a piece of 4mm Th polycarbonate over the panel. Along the top edge I have a hinge made from webbing. This is fitted to the wooden piece that is at the top of the panel & I have clamped it between 2 pieces of plastic spacers & screwed into the wood. Then I have done the same into the polycarbonate but clamped between some polycarbonate strip using pop rivets.
In the bottom edge I have 2 bolts projecting to act as spacers so it is held parallel to the buttons without touching them. At the bottom I have a loop of elastic bungee which loops over a hook to hold the flap closed.

Embarrassing  picture- It will certainly get cleaned in the next couple of daysCry





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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 21 May 2023 at 14:21
I use a polycarbonate sheet velcroed to wooden spacer frame that stops kicks or water runing down. I have a finder hole for start key and stop button. Mine is Yamaha 3ym20, slightly different but same idea
Perry


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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 21 May 2023 at 17:15
Originally posted by AlanL AlanL wrote:

  I was thinking metal bars over the panel, stopping feet but allowing finger access, but can't find out where to get them.

Kitchen cupboard D handles?
This sort of thing perhaps- but you would have to find a suitable size of course
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Wardrobe-Cupboard-Bathroom-Furniture/dp/B09C3DMP3V/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=Pull+Handles+Stainless&qid=1684685776&sr=8-26" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Wardrobe-Cupboard-Bathroom-Furniture/dp/B09C3DMP3V/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=Pull+Handles+Stainless&qid=1684685776&sr=8-26



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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex



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