Print Page | Close Window

SD50 seacock

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints and Tips
Forum Name: 461 / 470
Forum Description: 461 / 470 Hints and Tips
URL: http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8123
Printed Date: 08 August 2022 at 23:28
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: SD50 seacock
Posted By: Admirable
Subject: SD50 seacock
Date Posted: 01 January 2014 at 22:37
Happy New Year to all,

Has anyone replaced the daft sea cock on their SD50 Saildrive. Mine would take about 20 turns to open/close fully and due to my arms being obviously too short, it was always a real struggle to do and therefore was only done if the boat was being left for a lengthy period.
This winter layup, I've tried to close it shut but found that the inlet must have been fouled as it was not shut fully and water still came in. I will remove it when l lift out in April but would like to replace it with a ball valve type or what fellow owners might recommend and especially one easier to reach and operate.

-------------
Songbird

470e



Replies:
Posted By: Mark_J1
Date Posted: 02 January 2014 at 18:32
I've got the same problem to deal with on the jobs list for Grey Goose.  There seem 3 alternatives: 
  1. Replace with a new Yanmar bronze (?) gate valve.  Part cost about £95 (not my preference).
  2. Remove gate valve and fit a ball valve (seems many have done it, but there are a few questions about dissimilar metals for the valve versus the SD50).
  3. Leave the gate valve open and in place and fit an in-line ball valve in the coolant line to the strainer (still leaves a risk of a split hose).
I'd like to go with 2 above, but I'm trying to find advice on just what's involved in getting the gate valve out.  In a 400 the gate valve is in a horribly awkward place so access to do the job is going to be the defining factor for me.  

There are a few references to this on myHanse and in other forums but sadly I've not yet found any blow-by-blow detail. Share if you find anything?

I've got a couple of calls out with Yanmar engineers trying to get an idea of what's involved, cost and options etc.  I'll share what I get back.  

Mark

...and a quick PS as an edit.  There is an option 4.  Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve.  (A slightly tempting option!)

  


-------------
Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 06 January 2014 at 09:30
"...and a quick PS as an edit. There is an option 4. Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve. (A slightly tempting option!)"

This would stop cooling water being drawn through the saildrive. Would that be ok?

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: Admirable
Date Posted: 14 January 2014 at 08:14
Hi Mark,

Thanks for your reply and to Charles for his suggestion.

I am still pondering what to do. I have asked a Yanmar main dealer whether he has any suggestions too and wait for his reply.
I think the best solution is the ball valve and l would be quite happy to install a Trudesign one made of composite which is what l have done with all my other seacocks replacing the brass type which are not fit for purpose IMHO.
As for adding another thru-hull fitting, l prefer not to as l'm happy that there enough holes in the boat already! Also, l suspect that the cooling seawater inlet in the sail drive casing has a cooling function on the gearbox too and bypassing this would leave this un-cooled and raise additional problems.

My friend who is a marine engineer in Auckland seems to think that the composite type will do the trick or a recognised bronze fitting or DZR.

I will keep you posted as to what l decide to do and as the boat isn't being lifted until April then l have some time to decide.
Cheers

Philip


-------------
Songbird

470e


Posted By: skipper
Date Posted: 14 January 2014 at 15:12
Option 4 have I heard before, one benefit is that it is easy to remove dirt if the waterflow is stopped compared with issues inside the saildrive (could be barnacle reducing the water flow).
Have not done that on our boat (yet)


-------------
Cheers,
Skipper
Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder)


Posted By: Lippe
Date Posted: 02 March 2014 at 17:22
Hi,

I have never been able to close the seacock in my SD50. It is jammed open and I thought reading your three alternatives to add a Truedesign valve from SVB to the hose from cock. Today I checked the situation in boat and decided that will not do anything before it is time for a major overhaul. Then will replace the jammed valve. I see do particualr safety problem because the hose goes up to the sea-water filter that is above waterline. If I have to change impeller to sea-water pump opening the filter element's cover stops water (vacuum) coming to pump and in any case putting a plug or anything to filter's inlet cuts water from coming up.

Best Regards
Kari


Posted By: CharlesP
Date Posted: 02 March 2014 at 19:06
I think the main safety problem would come if the hose is split. I normally close the valve when we leave the boat as a precaution.

Charles

-------------
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway


Posted By: H64
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 12:57
Hi 
I have a Hanse 430 with the SD50 and the standard seacock for cooling water inlet. I wonder if anyone has replaced the original seackock with the optimized seacock which comes with the SD60? Will it fit without any "adapter" parts?
I have tried two Yanmar reps but they do not know and say not even Yanmar Country organization knows.
Thanks in advance for any support on this topic.
Best regards
Patrik


Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 13:28
I replaced my SD50 with a SD60.
Work done by yanmar dealer.
Back then I never thought of asking about the seacock.
Since this discussion I took a closer look, it actually looks like a ‘normal’ seacock/ballvalve.
Will post a picture this weekend.
Peter



-------------
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: Borjebus
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 14:08
I repeat from another thread:
I replaced the original SD50 valve with bronze material - 1" male/male, 1" ball-valve, hose fitting.
/Börje




-------------
BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments


Posted By: H64
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 19:07
Hi Börje

Is it correctly understood that the thread into the body of the SD50 is size 1"?
After realizing today that I cannot renovate the old original seacock I tried to loosen the valve with a massive 36mm spanner. I did not manage to loosen it. 
Did you dismantle the seacock with the saildrive still in the boat and in such case any trick you can share how you succeeded to loosen the seacock?
BTW I'm extremely grateful for the information you have shared. Its looks like a great solution which you describe very well. Many thanks!
/Patrik


Posted By: Borjebus
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 22:17
Yes, the SD50 threads are 1".
We used a big adjustable spanner (Swedish skiftnyckel) and it took some time to find good grips as the valve is square. At some time we used the top of the valve, which is hex, and as it was totally stuck to the valve body that was also useful.
Yes,  we did this from the port cabin.
/Börje



-------------
BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments


Posted By: toholthe
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 10:29
I just changed my valve on the SD50 yesterday on my H400. Changed it out with a Trudesing valve and used a thruhull with cut of flange as male to male connector. Worked fine. The threads on the old valve are tampered. That is why some users on this forum have run a taper tap to "clean" the threads. I did not do this. Managed to rotate it at least 6 times, so should be ok anyway. Plenty of locktite 5331 in between.


Posted By: H64
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 10:45
Hi Börje

Now I have received my parts as you described from Ital Nordic. I ordered their loctite with the parts.
How did you tighten the connections, did you use loctite? Any suggestions to make the installation leak-free?
On another note, have you had performance issues with your SD50 saildrive? 
In my case we have only had the boat for two seasons and it was first in water 2008. Poor documentation and feedback from previous owner but to me it looks like that no major maintenance work (cone polishing) has been done despite 850h operating hours.
We have until now even had the first wrong oil measurement stick, with the risk of filling too much.
For some reason I only got 1.85liter transmission oil out of the SD50. The oil looked in my eyes fine. We have no issues with visible oil leakages.
Lots of comments written about which oil quality to be used in the SD50, what is your take-away on this?

Finally I hope your sailing season has started and that you can look forward to great sailing the coming days with the good weather finally showing up!
We hope next week to be back down in the water and also startup the season.
BR
Patrik


Posted By: Borjebus
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 11:47
Hi Patrik,

We used something similar to Loctite from Würth, some yellow stuff.
No, no performance issues, luckily.
I have replaced the oil stick as it made me overfill and that caused water in the oil and I had to replace the seals behind the propeller. Now I have also made the SD50 ventilated - a nipple on the top and a transparent hose up to the top of the engine compartment.
There is a lot written in this forum about oil quality, and I have managed to buy a Castrol oil aimed for old machines; tractors, vintage cars, etc. Castrol Manual EP 80W is a GL4 oil suitable for SD50 and I got it from Oljemagasinet in Sweden.
/Börje


-------------
BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments


Posted By: Lippe
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 14:21
Originally posted by toholthe toholthe wrote:

I just changed my valve on the SD50 yesterday on my H400. Changed it out with a Trudesing valve and used a thruhull with cut of flange as male to male connector. Worked fine. The threads on the old valve are tampered. That is why some users on this forum have run a taper tap to "clean" the threads. I did not do this. Managed to rotate it at least 6 times, so should be ok anyway. Plenty of locktite 5331 in between.

Hi Toholthe,
Which year model is your H400? Was the old valve easy to disconnect?


Posted By: H64
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 15:13
In my case I’m copying Borje’s solution. Meaning a ball valve fitted with 1” male/male fitting direct into the body of the SD50. 
I only hesitate regarding which pipe sealant to use. 
With Teflon tape I can easy optimise the position of the
ball valve. The marine pipe part supplying company 
suggested I use Loctite 275. 
This product can however only be loosened using a heat gun
which makes me nervous very close to SD50 large rubber
gasket between sail drive and the hull. 
Any suggestion and experience to share is very welcome. 
I would prefer to use Teflon tape even though I in the past struggled to get my pipe seals tight. 
Cheers 
Patrik


Posted By: toholthe
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 15:21
No problem removing the old one. I had a 36mm wrench which fit perfectly over the square part. Once it was turned half a turn it came out easily. 

I removed the exhaust hose during the change. 




Posted By: toholthe
Date Posted: 29 May 2021 at 08:07
36mm wrench perfect fit:



 The threads on the old valve are slightly tampered i think. Not easy to see from photo. Normal TruDesign I was able to turn ca. 6 revs.


Finished:




Posted By: smith_morten
Date Posted: 16 April 2022 at 20:36
Thank you for pictures and description. Today we succeed in changing the sea cock on our SD50. It took a lot work and almost two very hard turns before the halve got easier to turn.
We also had to remove the exhaust, but afterwards we could access the sea cock from the hatch the in port cabin, from the top and from the hole where the exhaust has access to the engine also ind the port cabin.
New trudesign valve has been installed.




-------------
S/Y Fionia (H400), Denmark


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 17 April 2022 at 17:26
IMPORTANT !!!
The thread in Yanmar SD50 is BSPT and NOT BSPP.
The difference is, that BSPT is "Tapered" or conical (British Standard Pipe Tapered).
Use the advanced search function (mark "any date") and I believe that you will find, that "Bäsk" had to use a tool to widen the thread from BSPT to BSPP when he mounted the bronze fitting.
https://myhanse.com/raw-water-inlet-stopcock_topic8221_post104776.html?KW=SD50#104776
It is possible to buy a Stainless Steel A4 1 inch BSPT/BSPP fitting. You can then use a ball valve in SS or from Trudesign.
Kjeld




-------------
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net