Remove Rubbing Strake

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   Hi
Just wondering if anyone has removed the rubbing strake completely, and made good? 

Mine are old and could do with replacing, this however got me thinking...are they really needed. Boat is kept on a pontoon, never rafted up etc. So in my opinion they are only there to collect dirt. 

Interested to hear any thoughts. Expecting some “don’t do it’s 😂”.  

If anyone has removed to replace I’d be interested to see any photos of what’s underneath? ( how many screw holes ) 

I have a very good gel coat guy and am a sign writer myself so potentially can add a stripe where it was. 

Thoughts please. 

Kind regards 

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Ross Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Sub Lieutenant Joined: 04 July 2020 Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ross Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Remove Rubbing Strake Posted: 21 January 2021 at 09:25
	Hi Just wondering if anyone has removed the rubbing strake completely, and made good? Mine are old and could do with replacing, this however got me thinking...are they really needed. Boat is kept on a pontoon, never rafted up etc. So in my opinion they are only there to collect dirt. Interested to hear any thoughts. Expecting some “don’t do it’s 😂”. If anyone has removed to replace I’d be interested to see any photos of what’s underneath? ( how many screw holes ) I have a very good gel coat guy and am a sign writer myself so potentially can add a stripe where it was. Thoughts please. Kind regards

S&J Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 607	Post Options Post Reply Quote S&J Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 January 2021 at 13:48
	I didn't take this option on my last boat, but I regretted it as I subsequently spent 3 seasons based at Greifswald and squeezing into the "baltic boxes". The rubbing strake is very useful here, but I agree that it isn't needed for tidal marinas or even rafting where hopefully your fenders do a better job. I could see them being useful if using locks or tying up to piles against a quay wall. My solution in the Baltic was to buy Lyros "Bumperline" rope fenders which saved the gelcoat on my new boat and were easily removable once I move on to other cruising areas. I'm sorry that I don't know how they are attached but if you have the teak strakes I would have thought these could be scrubbed and brightened a bit using a diluted solution of oxalic acid.
	H458 #159 Primal launching spring 2021

Captain Cook Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 616	Post Options Post Reply Quote Captain Cook Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 January 2021 at 15:56
	I have removed (replaced) two metres, and the wood is glued to the fibreglass with a compound which is very difficult to remove. I have made some marks and scratches, but they will be covered when the new list is mounted. I will advice against removing the thing, there are a lot of screws, coming from the interior of the boat (probably not to find without dismantling the cabin). Those screws have to be found first, and then to be cut with an angle-grinder. Even though my list was cracked, it was very difficult to remove. I first separated the damaged part from the healthy one, and then I used a wood chisel to split the damaged wood lenghtwise. This way the SS screws emerged, and they were removed. The inner few millimeters of wood and compound also had to be chiselled away, making deep scratches in the GFK. If you look at the photo, you may be convinced, that in my case, the rubbing strake has protected the fibreglass, just as it is meant to do. The two metres of rubbing strake were purchased as a special offer from Boatoon.com (Wood €165, Freight € 185!) Edited by Captain Cook - 21 January 2021 at 16:09
	Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)

Fendant Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1436	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fendant Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 January 2021 at 05:17
	Wow, this looks serious. I am curious, how did it happen ?
	Frank

jeb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 202	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 January 2021 at 08:26
	I dont know what goat you have (and year) but hanse changed production methos around 2006/2006. On earlier models the dech/hull joint was hided by the rubbing stake and on later models its below the foot-rail. If it's the late design gelcoat job is limited to filling the holes, but for earlier you may be unlucky with a bad (cosmetic) joint from the factory giving you quite a lot of work. This was the case on my former H371.
	Jesper Hanse 400e

Captain Cook Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 616	Post Options Post Reply Quote Captain Cook Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 January 2021 at 12:02
	Frank: A few years back, our harbour was renewed with floating pontoons. Eventhough the tide in Denmark is just +/- 15 centimeters, the wind (moving water to/from the Baltic Sea), can cause +/- 1 meter, and in extreme conditions (storm) +/- 1,5 meters. As always, economy played a role when building the harbour. The pontoons are fastened with wires to big concrete slabs , placed on top of the sandy bottom (it was too expensive to dig a hole). (And yes, I have seen how it can be done right in The German Bight and Holland). With the wind blowing on the freeboard and rigging of 18-20 boats, the towing force on the concrete slabs is substantial. Therefore at one point the pontoon moved a metre towards the concrete pier. My boat was moored to the pontoon, and one day with low water (slack cables) and the pontoon pressed 1 meter towards the pier, my rubbing strake touched the timber on the pier. Q.E.D. The pictures show 3) the normal position of the access gangway, and 2) the gangway in its new position, where workmen are trying (in vain) to move the pontoon back. Economy (and a part ignorance/stupidity) also told the planners, that bolts with strenght 8.8 would be sufficient. Make your own judgement after studying the photo (1). Bolts in another mooring point also broke at a different time. Maybe I should mention, that a passing hovercraft ferry causes severe up/down movement of the boats in the harbour. This requires a tight mooring, and may be the reason, that the four fenders did not protect the rubbing strake. :Kjeld Edited by Captain Cook - 22 January 2021 at 20:37
	Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)

Fendant Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1436	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fendant Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 January 2021 at 13:49
	Thanks very much Kjeld! Lucky the rubbing strake did his job and protected the hull. Fair Winds 2021!
	Frank



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