Saildrive boot

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   Has anyone developed a better way to cover the opening where the saildrive comes thru the hull. The original rubber boot which is held on by contact cement comes loose every season.

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pinetree Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 09 April 2010 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 34	Post Options Post Reply Quote pinetree Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Saildrive boot Posted: 09 April 2010 at 22:23
	Has anyone developed a better way to cover the opening where the saildrive comes thru the hull. The original rubber boot which is held on by contact cement comes loose every season.
	vcp

Timeout Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Lieutenant Joined: 01 October 2009 Status: Offline Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Timeout Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 April 2010 at 12:12
	This is a usual problem. Use Sikaflex. That is 10 times stronger than the contact glue.
	Timeout Hanse 470e

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2010 at 05:04
	Pinetree: Your post prompted me to submit my photos from my re-gluing project in March 2009. I posted them in the "chit chat" section since this is a topic that applies to all models. http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3954 I haven't tried sikaflex but one challenge with that approach is probably how to clamp it in place while the sikaflex cures. Contact cement is much easier for gluing upside-down, and I think with proper preparation of the surfaces it should work. Edited by landlocked - 04 May 2010 at 05:10
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

hawkeye Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commander Joined: 03 December 2006 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 132	Post Options Post Reply Quote hawkeye Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2010 at 08:15
	Hi guys, The boatbuilder stuck mine on with epoxy adhesive. I was sceptical but it has not moved in 3.5 years. Forget contact adhesives. You will be lucky to get 3 months. From memory they just taped it while it set. It has gap filling properties so no need to achieve high pressures. cheers, Hawkeye

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2010 at 18:07
	Whichever adhesive you use, make sure you do a good job of sanding the neoprene rubber. I don't think there is a lot of strain on the glue joint, but getting a reasonable bond to the neoprene is difficult. It sounds like people have had good success with either epoxy or sikaflex and I can't argue with success. I think Hawkeye posted about the epoxy glue several years ago so it's good to hear that it is still in place. On the other hand, the industry solution for gluing neoprene is contact adhesive. I talked with a guy who repairs inflatable boats for a living - neoprene is used for floors and valve boots on whitewater rafts for example. He uses contact adhesive and insists that the singular most important step is a deep sanding of the material before you apply the adhesive. In my case my flap had been glued 3 times - first at the factory, then at the local dealer, then at a boatyard. When it came off again I found the glue was stuck to the hull but had all cleanly peeled off the rubber, which was still shiny and smooth as if it had just come out of the mold (see the photo I posted to see the difference before and after sanding). Hence I decided that rather than try a different glue I'd try doing a proper job using the contact adhesive first. 12 months so far and holding - not a world record I'm sure, but a clear improvement. I'll post updates, and if this turns out to be anything short of "permanent" I'll be trying something else next time.
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

holby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 18 February 2006 Location: Isle of Man Status: Offline Points: 2287	Post Options Post Reply Quote holby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2010 at 18:31
	Landlocked, Thanks for your pictures in the chat chit section, . I have every year re stuck the neoprene seal, with sikaflex every time but every year it ends up as a mess and need to be re done. I will follow your advice with the new one this autumn when i replace the actual sail drive seal. Ta. Dave Edited by holby - 04 May 2010 at 18:32
	Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)

landlocked Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commadore Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote landlocked Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2010 at 23:16
	Thanks for the input Holby. This is such an annoying problem but I think we can use the power of myhanse to pool our data and figure out the best solution.
	"Kerkyra" 400e #042

Alain & Anne Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rear Admiral Joined: 13 December 2005 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 531	Post Options Post Reply Quote Alain & Anne Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 May 2010 at 16:01
	In 2008 after 3000 milles I found the boot loose! After advice from the local Hanse dealer we decide to close the hole with a piece of Mylar fixed with sikaflex! (but I keep the rubber boot on board!!) In 2009, 6000 milles later it was gone! In 2010, when we worked on Uhambo before sailing south, I fixed the rubber boot with sikaflex 292. I will see next year, as the waters here in Ushuaïa are too cold for me...
	UHAMBO 430e#004 White hull-teck deck-Yanmar 55hp-long range cruising OCC Our blog: www.uhambo.fr



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