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SD50 seacock

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Admirable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Admirable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: SD50 seacock
    Posted: 01 January 2014 at 22:37
Happy New Year to all,

Has anyone replaced the daft sea cock on their SD50 Saildrive. Mine would take about 20 turns to open/close fully and due to my arms being obviously too short, it was always a real struggle to do and therefore was only done if the boat was being left for a lengthy period.
This winter layup, I've tried to close it shut but found that the inlet must have been fouled as it was not shut fully and water still came in. I will remove it when l lift out in April but would like to replace it with a ball valve type or what fellow owners might recommend and especially one easier to reach and operate.
Songbird

470e
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Mark_J1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark_J1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 January 2014 at 18:32
I've got the same problem to deal with on the jobs list for Grey Goose.  There seem 3 alternatives: 
  1. Replace with a new Yanmar bronze (?) gate valve.  Part cost about £95 (not my preference).
  2. Remove gate valve and fit a ball valve (seems many have done it, but there are a few questions about dissimilar metals for the valve versus the SD50).
  3. Leave the gate valve open and in place and fit an in-line ball valve in the coolant line to the strainer (still leaves a risk of a split hose).
I'd like to go with 2 above, but I'm trying to find advice on just what's involved in getting the gate valve out.  In a 400 the gate valve is in a horribly awkward place so access to do the job is going to be the defining factor for me.  

There are a few references to this on myHanse and in other forums but sadly I've not yet found any blow-by-blow detail. Share if you find anything?

I've got a couple of calls out with Yanmar engineers trying to get an idea of what's involved, cost and options etc.  I'll share what I get back.  

Mark

...and a quick PS as an edit.  There is an option 4.  Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve.  (A slightly tempting option!)

  


Edited by Mark_J1 - 03 January 2014 at 00:13
Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2014 at 09:30
"...and a quick PS as an edit. There is an option 4. Fit another thru-hull and seacock for the engine raw water coolant. Blank off the Yanmar gate valve. (A slightly tempting option!)"

This would stop cooling water being drawn through the saildrive. Would that be ok?

Charles
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway
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Admirable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Admirable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2014 at 08:14
Hi Mark,

Thanks for your reply and to Charles for his suggestion.

I am still pondering what to do. I have asked a Yanmar main dealer whether he has any suggestions too and wait for his reply.
I think the best solution is the ball valve and l would be quite happy to install a Trudesign one made of composite which is what l have done with all my other seacocks replacing the brass type which are not fit for purpose IMHO.
As for adding another thru-hull fitting, l prefer not to as l'm happy that there enough holes in the boat already! Also, l suspect that the cooling seawater inlet in the sail drive casing has a cooling function on the gearbox too and bypassing this would leave this un-cooled and raise additional problems.

My friend who is a marine engineer in Auckland seems to think that the composite type will do the trick or a recognised bronze fitting or DZR.

I will keep you posted as to what l decide to do and as the boat isn't being lifted until April then l have some time to decide.
Cheers

Philip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2014 at 15:12
Option 4 have I heard before, one benefit is that it is easy to remove dirt if the waterflow is stopped compared with issues inside the saildrive (could be barnacle reducing the water flow).
Have not done that on our boat (yet)
Cheers,
Skipper
Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lippe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2014 at 17:22
Hi,

I have never been able to close the seacock in my SD50. It is jammed open and I thought reading your three alternatives to add a Truedesign valve from SVB to the hose from cock. Today I checked the situation in boat and decided that will not do anything before it is time for a major overhaul. Then will replace the jammed valve. I see do particualr safety problem because the hose goes up to the sea-water filter that is above waterline. If I have to change impeller to sea-water pump opening the filter element's cover stops water (vacuum) coming to pump and in any case putting a plug or anything to filter's inlet cuts water from coming up.

Best Regards
Kari
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2014 at 19:06
I think the main safety problem would come if the hose is split. I normally close the valve when we leave the boat as a precaution.

Charles
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

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H64 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 12:57
Hi 
I have a Hanse 430 with the SD50 and the standard seacock for cooling water inlet. I wonder if anyone has replaced the original seackock with the optimized seacock which comes with the SD60? Will it fit without any "adapter" parts?
I have tried two Yanmar reps but they do not know and say not even Yanmar Country organization knows.
Thanks in advance for any support on this topic.
Best regards
Patrik
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Rock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 13:28
I replaced my SD50 with a SD60.
Work done by yanmar dealer.
Back then I never thought of asking about the seacock.
Since this discussion I took a closer look, it actually looks like a ‘normal’ seacock/ballvalve.
Will post a picture this weekend.
Peter



Edited by Rock - 25 May 2021 at 13:36
Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Borjebus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 14:08
I repeat from another thread:
I replaced the original SD50 valve with bronze material - 1" male/male, 1" ball-valve, hose fitting.
/Börje


BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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