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Bluewater sailing in a 312 (or 311/315)

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KobbSkolten View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 April 2012
Location: Stavanger/Norwa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KobbSkolten Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Bluewater sailing in a 312 (or 311/315)
    Posted: 29 November 2012 at 09:01
As mentioned, i think i will solve my power needs by buying a http://www.efoy.com/en/
Its noise free unlike running engine, and its weather independent (unlike windmills and solar panels). The drawback is the cost Confused, but i think it will be worth it. Only thing is it don't make hot water as the engine does, but i don't think you can waste water on hot showers anyway out there Tongue..

But back to safety. Except from checking and maintenance, does the rig has to be altered, or is it OK as original?

The Sails, is the original quality OK ? I didn't quite understand the reef 3 patent either.  Does anyone has drawings or pictures of how its done ?

How hard wind can you sail in with only mainsail and reef 2?  Or by only the self tacker jib ?

Other things that should be altered/modified or strengthened before setting out on the ocean ?

And how much more comfortable would a heavier and larger boat actually be in harsh conditions?

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Swanji View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 March 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swanji Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2012 at 16:08
Originally posted by CharlesP CharlesP wrote:

Occasionally I have rigged them while sailing by hanging them to the guard rail wires/stanchions, but generally I can avoid this because I would be starting the engine every four hours or so for a short while as recommended by Yanmar.
Charles


Hi Charles

Is this a recommendation by Yanmar when using solar panels? If so, I am trying to work out why. Perhaps it has something to do with the alternator which is the only connection back to the motor? If I am not mistaken though the alternator makes use of diodes as semi conductors to ensure current is conducted one way only.
Onwards and upwards

Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece

Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2012 at 06:04
I have a 3mm flexibel solar panel on the roof of the hatch, 35W. Some put their life boat on the hatch, I put it astern in the starboard corner. The solar panel does not fill the batteries, therefor I need either to run the engine or to have shore power. I helps a little.

In another topic I write about the change of the fridge. Due to very poor insulation it runs quit often during the hour. Replacing the vaporisator with a cold buffer (Waeco VD-17) might help to reduce the number of times the fridge turns on. 

I added a smart charge regulator. This helps to charge the batteries in less time.

Gregor
Uisge Beatha

Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002)
Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80

http://www.uisge-beatha.eu
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2012 at 23:57
On my previous boats I used roll up panels and was quite pleased with them, but their output is not quite as high. My present setup is a 35w panel stuck to the top of the garage. This helps when underway and recharges and keeps the battery topped up when I leave the boat.
I also have two 30w rigid panels which I use at anchor or other places when not plugged in. Their cabling is always fixed to the batteries with a free end at the companion way. These panels are about 800 x 300 so they will rest quite nicely on the coach roof where I simply tie them to the halyards. Occasionally I have rigged them while sailing by hanging them to the guard rail wires/stanchions, but generally I can avoid this because I would be starting the engine every four hours or so for a short while as recommended by Yanmar. These panels are stored in padded bags below, normally wedged upright against the side of a cabin.

I think a second alternator or a smart charge regulator would be a very good idea. On those occasions at anchor when the weather is fog mist or rain for several days it would be really useful.

My objectives? They are to recharge and keep the battery topped up while I am away from the boat and over the winter period ashore with the panel fixed to the coach roof. The other two panels enable me to have the fridge on while at anchor.

Charles
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway
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Swanji View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swanji Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2012 at 19:42
Originally posted by CharlesP CharlesP wrote:



Power - we would use the engine for an hour at the beginning and end of sailing. This would keep our AGM 150 Ah adequately topped up. In port or at anchor, we would get out our solar panels. Power was certainly not a problem for us, but our battery monitor was essential to managing the system. Our fridge was always on maximum with the engine running, but otherwise turned down. We watched tv and had the radio /. Cd on only if we knew we could top up the power with a sunny day anchored, a rainy day plugged in to shore power, or knowing that we would be motoring several hours the following morning. Having LED lighting and nav lights certainly helps.


Charles


Hi Charles

Your power set up is interesting. Do you use amorphous type solar panels which you can roll up and store when sailing? If not, where do you store the panels? What size did you go for? What is your objective with the panels- to be able to keep the fridge on and batteries topped up?

I am dead against mounting panels on a gantry- I just don't like what that looks like at the end of the boat. I would rather install a second alternator with a alternator to battery charger for quicker recharge times that are not weather dependent. On the other hand solar panel that trickle dharges the batteries when one is away from the boat and that allows you to keep the fridge on when not in a marina and which you can pack away when sailing has real appeal.

Onwards and upwards

Nidri, Levkada, Ionian, Greece

Hanse 350 #7, SY Evolution, standard keel, 3YM20 sail drive, 3 cabins, cherry wood interior, teak decks, feathering prop
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2012 at 22:11
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

Re the fuel
Gregor please note!!
Sorry could not help slipping that one in!!

Looking forward to see the film where one is setting the third reef from the first reef :)

Gregor
Uisge Beatha

Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002)
Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80

http://www.uisge-beatha.eu
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Nilandhoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2012 at 19:02
Hi  Charles,

The ARC entry is a 325 named 'Quickie' (http://www.worldcruising.com/arc/Boat.aspx?B=10681&BookingID=2647)

Cheers

Paul
Hanse 325 'One Life'
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CharlesP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CharlesP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2012 at 18:57

That is very interesting Simon.  Do you have the name?  We can then look them up on the ARC website and maybe follow their progress.

 
Regarding the third reef, I would only rig it with a line to the leech cringle.  The luff cringle arrangement being the same as Samuel ddescribes.  On my boom, there is no room for an additional block at the boom end.  My third reef line therefore uses the outhaul blocks and jammer.  My outhaul is simply a short line passing through the clew with both ends fixed to the boom end eye.  Being ex-racing, I was somewhat dubious about this fixed outhaul, but it has worked ok.  Sailing with my wife, I tend to reef early, so a flattened unreefed sail in strong winds is not required.
 
Charles
 
 
'MERIDIAN LADY'

320 Nr 536 2010

Medway
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gertha View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gertha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2012 at 18:15
There is a 320 in this years ARC.
They are obviously not fazed by a bit of offshore sailing.
S
Swanned off
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2012 at 17:05
The trouble with using a permanently rigged 3rd reef as for the first & second is that every time you reef you have an extra reef line to shorten as you set the ones before it. In addition you would need very long lines up the luff & leech which can soon tangle if you are not careful. You would also need extra blocks plus an extra jammer.
It also causes more friction when shaking reefs out. I am not sure if the long lines flapping against the reef might not cause wear to he stitching over a long period
Whilst i can understand Charles suggestion( it is one workable solution) about skipping the first reef I find that he one I use a lot but i do not use the second near as much so it would mean i was underpowered a lot of the time
I do believe that a third reef is an important addition as the 31x can be a bit overpowered on 2 reefs if the wind pipes up
Charles has a 320 so has a bit more power than our 31x's
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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