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SD50 seacock

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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: SD50 seacock
    Posted: 17 April 2022 at 17:26
IMPORTANT !!!
The thread in Yanmar SD50 is BSPT and NOT BSPP.
The difference is, that BSPT is "Tapered" or conical (British Standard Pipe Tapered).
Use the advanced search function (mark "any date") and I believe that you will find, that "Bäsk" had to use a tool to widen the thread from BSPT to BSPP when he mounted the bronze fitting.
https://myhanse.com/raw-water-inlet-stopcock_topic8221_post104776.html?KW=SD50#104776
It is possible to buy a Stainless Steel A4 1 inch BSPT/BSPP fitting. You can then use a ball valve in SS or from Trudesign.
Kjeld




Edited by Captain Cook - 17 April 2022 at 17:57
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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smith_morten View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smith_morten Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2022 at 20:36
Thank you for pictures and description. Today we succeed in changing the sea cock on our SD50. It took a lot work and almost two very hard turns before the halve got easier to turn.
We also had to remove the exhaust, but afterwards we could access the sea cock from the hatch the in port cabin, from the top and from the hole where the exhaust has access to the engine also ind the port cabin.
New trudesign valve has been installed.


S/Y Fionia (H400), Denmark
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toholthe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toholthe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 08:07
36mm wrench perfect fit:



 The threads on the old valve are slightly tampered i think. Not easy to see from photo. Normal TruDesign I was able to turn ca. 6 revs.


Finished:




Edited by toholthe - 29 May 2021 at 08:10
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toholthe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toholthe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 15:21
No problem removing the old one. I had a 36mm wrench which fit perfectly over the square part. Once it was turned half a turn it came out easily. 

I removed the exhaust hose during the change. 




Edited by toholthe - 28 May 2021 at 22:13
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H64 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 15:13
In my case I’m copying Borje’s solution. Meaning a ball valve fitted with 1” male/male fitting direct into the body of the SD50. 
I only hesitate regarding which pipe sealant to use. 
With Teflon tape I can easy optimise the position of the
ball valve. The marine pipe part supplying company 
suggested I use Loctite 275. 
This product can however only be loosened using a heat gun
which makes me nervous very close to SD50 large rubber
gasket between sail drive and the hull. 
Any suggestion and experience to share is very welcome. 
I would prefer to use Teflon tape even though I in the past struggled to get my pipe seals tight. 
Cheers 
Patrik
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Lippe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lippe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 14:21
Originally posted by toholthe toholthe wrote:

I just changed my valve on the SD50 yesterday on my H400. Changed it out with a Trudesing valve and used a thruhull with cut of flange as male to male connector. Worked fine. The threads on the old valve are tampered. That is why some users on this forum have run a taper tap to "clean" the threads. I did not do this. Managed to rotate it at least 6 times, so should be ok anyway. Plenty of locktite 5331 in between.

Hi Toholthe,
Which year model is your H400? Was the old valve easy to disconnect?
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Borjebus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Borjebus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 11:47
Hi Patrik,

We used something similar to Loctite from Würth, some yellow stuff.
No, no performance issues, luckily.
I have replaced the oil stick as it made me overfill and that caused water in the oil and I had to replace the seals behind the propeller. Now I have also made the SD50 ventilated - a nipple on the top and a transparent hose up to the top of the engine compartment.
There is a lot written in this forum about oil quality, and I have managed to buy a Castrol oil aimed for old machines; tractors, vintage cars, etc. Castrol Manual EP 80W is a GL4 oil suitable for SD50 and I got it from Oljemagasinet in Sweden.
/Börje
BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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H64 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 10:45
Hi Börje

Now I have received my parts as you described from Ital Nordic. I ordered their loctite with the parts.
How did you tighten the connections, did you use loctite? Any suggestions to make the installation leak-free?
On another note, have you had performance issues with your SD50 saildrive? 
In my case we have only had the boat for two seasons and it was first in water 2008. Poor documentation and feedback from previous owner but to me it looks like that no major maintenance work (cone polishing) has been done despite 850h operating hours.
We have until now even had the first wrong oil measurement stick, with the risk of filling too much.
For some reason I only got 1.85liter transmission oil out of the SD50. The oil looked in my eyes fine. We have no issues with visible oil leakages.
Lots of comments written about which oil quality to be used in the SD50, what is your take-away on this?

Finally I hope your sailing season has started and that you can look forward to great sailing the coming days with the good weather finally showing up!
We hope next week to be back down in the water and also startup the season.
BR
Patrik
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toholthe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toholthe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 10:29
I just changed my valve on the SD50 yesterday on my H400. Changed it out with a Trudesing valve and used a thruhull with cut of flange as male to male connector. Worked fine. The threads on the old valve are tampered. That is why some users on this forum have run a taper tap to "clean" the threads. I did not do this. Managed to rotate it at least 6 times, so should be ok anyway. Plenty of locktite 5331 in between.
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Borjebus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Borjebus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 22:17
Yes, the SD50 threads are 1".
We used a big adjustable spanner (Swedish skiftnyckel) and it took some time to find good grips as the valve is square. At some time we used the top of the valve, which is hex, and as it was totally stuck to the valve body that was also useful.
Yes,  we did this from the port cabin.
/Börje



Edited by Borjebus - 25 May 2021 at 22:18
BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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